Perfume Chat Room, July 18

Perfume Chat Room, July 18

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, July 18, and WordPress tells me today is my tenth anniversary on WordPress! Wow. It honestly doesn’t feel as if I began that long ago! I so appreciate those of you who have come on the blogging journey with me, whether years ago or just this year. Special thanks to my regular commenters: you make every post so much more interesting! Even more special thanks to Portia Turbo of Australian Perfume Junkies, who has so kindly involved me in some really fun fragrance blog projects. Let’s do that again some time! The past week also brought Bastille Day: Vive la France!

Eiffel Tower in Paris with Bastille Day fireworks
Bastille Day fireworks; image from http://www.eurotunnel.com.

On another topic, I’m eagerly looking forward to a fashion exhibit that I plan to go see with friends next week. It is the first ever American retrospective exhibit of the work of the French couturiere Madame Jeanne Lanvin. As some of you will remember, the same venue hosted a major exhibit of the work of Madame Grès two years ago, which was, as they say, to die for. She was also known for a legendary fragrance, Cabochard.

Madame Lanvin was also the inspiration for a legendary fragrance: Arpège. Arpège premiered in 1927, so it is almost 100 years old! It is a floral aldehyde, like its contemporary Chanel No. 5, and it is a complex bouquet of notes that include aldehydes, lily of the valley, peach, honeysuckle, neroli, bergamot, jasmine, ylang ylang, iris, coriander, rose, lily, geranium, camellia, sandalwood, amber, vetiver, musk, benzoin, vanilla, and patchouli. It has, of course, been reformulated over the years. As recently as 2008, though, perfume critic Luca Turin still gave it four stars, calling it a “unisex classic”, and “an elegant, nutty, woody floral with an overall cashmere beige tonality that would be vey dowdy on all but a guy.”

The beautiful classic Arpège bottle of black with gold shows a stylized Art Deco figure of a mother and daughter, which is supposed to represent Mme. Lanvin and her daughter, who chose the fragrance’s name. I must confess, I’ve never really worn Arpège. Have you? What are your thoughts?

Perfume Chat Room, July 4

Perfume Chat Room, July 4

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, July 4, and it has been a week. Suffice it to say, I’m not feeling particularly celebratory — but by God, my family has served the United States since before there even was a United States, so I’m trying to keep things in perspective and not let the Fourth of July and its meaning get taken from me. Independence and freedom cost too many too much to let them go without a fight, as we were reminded last summer on our trip to Normandy and the D-Day beaches.

On a lighter note, one of my multi-great grandfathers, after whom my father was named, like his father and grandfather and a few more ancestors before that, is mentioned in the Papers of George Washington for having complained to the General that he had been beaten by an officer in the Continental Army. My ancestor was in the state militia and viewed himself as independent of the regular army officers. Apparently he had sassed the officer, who took it upon himself to inflict corporal punishment. General Washington, bless him, took the complaint seriously and ordered an investigation. As if he had nothing else on his mind!

So for the Fourth, I thought I’d write about an all-American fragrance: Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy Girl. Created by Calice Becker and launched in 1996, it is sold in a red, white, and blue striped bottle, presented as just the kind of youthful, fresh fragrance a true American Girl would wear.

But, of course, there’s much more to it than that, and Luca Turin gave it five stars in the first edition of his book “Perfumes: The Guide.”

Fragrantica lists its notes as follows: “Top notes are Apple Tree Blossom, Mandarin Orange, Camelia and Black Currant; middle notes are Lemon, Honeysuckle, Grapefruit, Rose, Lily, Mint and Violet; base notes are Magnolia, Jasmine, Cedar, Sandalwood and Leather.”

M. Turin describes Tommy Girl as a tea base “clothed … in a fresh floral accord so exhilaratingly bright that it could be used to set the white point for all future fragrances.” I assume that in this case, “camellia” refers to camellia sinensis, the plant from which tea leaves are derived. Apparently, the base tea accord was inspired by the complex scents in the famous Paris tea store, Mariage Frères. Some of the notes listed absolutely appear in various tea blends, such as lemon, jasmine, rose, mint.

Not surprisingly, since I love tea, I find Tommy Girl very pleasant to wear, especially in the heat and humidity we’re having here now. It goes on fresh and it stays fresh, just with different citrus and floral notes emerging as it evolves. My nose doesn’t pick up any leather accord, though.

Have you tried Tommy Girl lately? Are there any other fragrances you consider “All-American”?

The flag at half mast for Memorial Day, the American Cemetery, Normandy
Perfume Chat Room, June 27

Perfume Chat Room, June 27

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, June 27, and we are back from Copenhagen! While there, I discovered a small niche perfumery called Crime Passional, which had a very nice selection of niche perfumes and a very friendly staff.

I hadn’t really been searching for perfumes, but came across Crime Passionel while wandering through the area of the city between the Christiansborg Palace and the University of Copenhagen, so of course I dropped in. The store was pretty small but certainly made the most of its space!

We had the most wonderful time in Copenhagen, and also wonderful weather! The high temperatures were mostly in the 60s (Fahrenheit), topping out at 70, and the days were sunny and clear, with very little humidity. We saw the major sights, including a day trip by train to Helsingør and Kronborg, and had fun experiences like seeing the changing of the guard, eating seafood in Nyhavn, visiting the National Museum, and watching the three-masted training ship return to port after a months-long voyage.

We spent an afternoon and evening at Tivoli Gardens, watched a traditional pantomime, and saw the start of a pop concert packed with local teenagers who were all having a jolly time. In general, the people we met all week were nice, friendly, and cheerful. All spoke excellent English, though we made the effort to master a few words of Danish, especially “thank you.”

We walked almost everywhere and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. I’m looking forward to another visit to see more of Scandinavia! Now we’re staying put through the rest of the summer, and I hope to tackle numerous projects, including sorting through and reorganizing my fragrances. Any helpful tips on that?

Perfume Chat Room, June 13

Perfume Chat Room, June 13

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, June 13, and now I’m on my way to Copenhagen! I wanted to share with you some of my photos from the Barnes Fragrance Fair, since I wasn’t able to upload several of them in my last post.

Do any of you have recommendations for Copenhagen, fragrance-related or otherwise? Thanks!

Perfume Chat Room, May 30

Perfume Chat Room, May 30

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, May 30, and I’m back from London! I had such a wonderful time, while my lovely husband worked (which is why we were there). One of my many adventures was the Barnes Fragrance Fair, which I found out about from Sarah McCartney of  4160 Tuesdays.

Sarah McCartney, 4160 Tuesdays

The Barnes Fragrance Fair is a relatively young event; it started after COVID lockdowns, I believe. It is a showcase for British independent perfumers, like Sarah. She had a display there and she taught perfume-making workshops like the one I did at her studio the week before.

There were so many interesting perfumers there, from some that are well-known among fragrance fans, like Beaufort London, 4160 Tuesdays, Jorum Studio, Kingdom Scotland, Maya Njie, Gallivant, Angela Flanders, Nancy Meilland, and more. There were also brands that were new to me, which was fun. All the perfumers were very friendly and interesting, and I came home with a few discovery sets as well as three new 4160 Tuesdays fragrances. I got there right after it opened, so it wasn’t too crowded, but by lunchtime, it was packed.

I have more photos to share but I’m having technical issues right now! Do you know any of these brands?

Perfume Chat Room, May 16

Perfume Chat Room, May 16

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, May 16, and I did a perfume-making workshop in London this week with Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays! It was held in her studio in Hammersmith, in a very appealing neighborhood.

Sarah McCartney, 4160 Tuesdays

It was so much fun. Sarah focused the workshop on sustainability in perfumery and did an excellent job explaining to the group how each ingredient she had chosen for the workshop relates to that theme. As a lover of rose scents, my favorite was the rose absolute derived from upcycled rose petals. As a gardener, my favorite was the vetiver, which was harvested via a different method that leaves half the plant and, importantly, its whole root system to prevent erosion.

Tester strips for the substances we used

Sarah also did an outstanding job explaining how perfumery is a mix of math and chemistry, as she taught us to combine different substances in different ratios on filter paper, which we would then try to translate into the proportions we would use in our final creations.

The book you see on the left is the full weeklong program for London Craft Week, which has been this week. Sarah’s workshop was part of that.

Some of our workshop materials

I used Sarah’s base of “Soft Musks” for my own creation. I can’t describe it any better than she can, so here’s the info.

Made from readily biodegradable materials. These molecules enhance the aromas of natural materials, and extend a fragrance’s longevity, to make a more wearable longer lasting fragrance. They take the place of components lost during the process of extracting natural materials. Historically animal materials, like musk, ambergris and civet, were used for these effects.

To that base, I added compounds based on rose, lily, orange, raspberry.

My own perfume!
Part of Sarah’s collection of perfumes

Sarah also has an important collection of perfumes, many of which she used in writing her book with Samantha Scriven, “The Perfume Companion”, which I highly recommend if you can get a copy (I think it’s still available on Kindle if you can’t find a hard copy).

Sarah McCartney

I had a fabulous time and I learned so much! Sustainability is important, and it’s wonderful to know of the progress in this area.

Do you have any thoughts or insights about sustainability in perfumery?

Perfume Chat Room, May 10

Perfume Chat Room, May 10

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Saturday, May 10, and I’m late posting because we’re on our way to London!

I have a long list of things I want to do, mostly special exhibits or events since I’ve been lucky enough to visit London quite regularly because of my husbands job, which takes him there often.

Tops on my list is the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, which I last visited pre-pandemic (I think it was 2019). And of course, I plan to enjoy the usual spectacular displays by the UK’s top rose breeders, which are always so beautiful — and fragrant.

Then there’s a massive exhibit of Cartier jewelry at the V&A Museum, and an installation of the red ceramic memorial poppies at the Tower of London, plus a special exhibit of apparel at Kensington Palace. Whew!

To get in the mood for Chelsea, I’m wearing a sample of Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Rosa Verde. It’s very pretty and fresh, but I’m not sure how I feel about the dry down. It’s almost a bit sour, to my nose.

On the other wrist, I spritzed Cartier’s Baiser Volé, also very pretty but with a progression I find more appealing,

If you know of any more must-dos or must-sniffs, please add suggestions in the comments! And if you were going to a massive flower show, what would you wear as fragrance?

My own roses

Perfume Chat Room, May 2

Perfume Chat Room, May 2

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, May 2, and yesterday was May Day in many countries. In France, a May Day tradition is to give bouquets of maguey, or lily of the valley, to loved ones and friends. Apparently this was a tradition faithfully honored by M. Christian Dior, whose favorite flower was the muguet. This inspired, in turn, his work with Edmond Roudnitska to create the legendary Dior fragrance Diorissimo. As regular readers here know, muguet is one of my favorite scents and the flowers are one of my favorite flowers. In past years, I’ve done daily posts in May for a blogging “May Muguet Marathon”, which has been great fun!

Today I’m wearing my newest muguet fragrance, Cavatina by Parfums Dusita. I really love it, especially at this time of year when the weather shifts between late spring and early summer.

Lilies of the valley, green moss, and ferns in woodland garden
Lilies of the valley in woodland garden; image from Pinterest

Did you do anything special to celebrate May Day? Do you have any new-to-you favorite muguet or other spring fragrances?

Perfume Chat Room, April 25

Perfume Chat Room, April 25

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, April 25, and we had a lovely Easter with family last Sunday. My husband’s brother, his wife, their older daughter, her husband and their baby joined us and our three children, so it was quite festive. The roses in my garden cooperated by producing many blooms, and the weather cooperated by staying sunny!

I don’t normally comment much here about masculine fragrances, because my own taste and collection are much more floral than most “masculine” scents (which anyone can wear, of course). But our twenty-something son was wearing a fragrance he had requested and I gave him for Christmas, and he smelled so good! It is Azzaro’s The Most Wanted Parfum, and it came out in 2022. I don’t know who the perfumer is. Top accord is ginger, middle accord is “woody notes”, and the base is Bourbon vanilla. It smells warm and just a bit spicy, with soft sillage. Downright cuddly, without being sweet.

I’m very happy that our son has developed a nose for nice fragrance. He only has a couple, that he wears in rotation depending on his mood and the occasion, but he always smells appropriately nice, in a preppy sort of way. His first fragrance, which I picked out for him, was Davidoff’s Cool Water, which suited him as a teenager (and he could afford to buy it himself if he wanted to, an important consideration). He still wears Chanel’s Paris-Edimbourg. And now he has The Most Wanted. I just wish its bottle wasn’t made to look like the chamber of a revolver, sigh.

Do you have any recent new favorites among more masculine-leaning scents?

Bottle of Bourbon vanilla extract with vanilla bean pods
Bourbon vanilla beans and extract; image from nativevanilla.com
Perfume Chat Room, April 18

Perfume Chat Room, April 18

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, April 18, and it is Good Friday. I love Easter, but Good Friday is of course a solemn day in the Christian calendar, since it marks the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. One thing I love about Easter is the prevalence of Easter lilies, which smell so good. I don’t think I own any lily-forward fragrances, do you?

Happy Passover to all who celebrate, and happy Easter in advance!