Perfume Chat Room, September 5

Perfume Chat Room, September 5

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, September 5, and it is my birthday weekend! My lovely husband surprised me with an early present of a large gift card from David Austin Roses, my favorite roses which are both beautiful and fragrant. As he knows, I would much rather be given rose bushes than bouquets, lol. Rose perfume is always welcome too, of course! And he has given that too, most notably the gorgeous rose star he brought me from Dubai some years ago, and Penhaligon’s Elisabethan Rose 2018.

I had intended to write last Friday about DragonCon, the massive fantasy/anime/cosplay event that happens here every Labor Day Weekend. The perfume maker Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab exhibits at it, and my daughter (who goes every year) was kind enough to bring me samples and other freebies, last year and this year. Alas, I didn’t get organized fast enough to write a post last Friday!

The sample I wore last week and again today is Bruised Violet Compound. The website describes it as having notes of crushed violets, red currant, patchouli root, and Spanish moss. Mostly what I smell is violets, and it’s very appealing. The website also says it “promotes vigor in the undead and relieves the discomforts and complaints so common to incorporeal spirits.”

I’m very amused by the goth names of the fragrances created by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab. Have you tried any of their scents?

Perfume Chat Room, August 22

Perfume Chat Room, August 22

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, August 22, and we are having seesaw weather again! It veers between very hot and humid, and cooler but with sudden torrential downpours. Next week, we’re supposed to get a stretch of cooler weather without the thunderstorms. I’ll believe it when I see it! Meanwhile, in the SLOW process of reorganizing and tidying, I came across an early favorite in my fragrance journey, the discontinued Blasted Bloom by Penhaligon’s. It was a gift from my husband that he brought back from one of his work trips, and he chose it himself. The man has great taste!

I still love Blasted Bloom and I was happy to wear it again. It suits this unpredictable but mostly hot and thundery weather, with its notes of sea water and green leaves. It’s very refreshing without being citrusy.

The landscape that inspired Blasted Bloom.

On another note, I find myself surprisingly excited by the 100th anniversary release of Shalimar! I know some of you are huge, longtime fans; I’m not, though I like it now, more than I did ten years ago when the only version I found approachable was the eau de cologne (I know, I know). Shalimar L’Essence sounds really great, and I like the bottle design. It is supposed to be available starting September 1, have any of you pre-ordered it or planned to rush out to get it asap?

Perfume Chat Room, August 8

Perfume Chat Room, August 8

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, August 8, and we finally got some respite from the heat this week. In fact, we hit one low temperature tat broke a record set over 100 years ago! So weird. Temps have crept back up but they’re in the high 70s and low 80s, which is very pleasant. August is t done with us yet, though, so I’ll keep pulling out lighter fragrances.

Today I wore Costarela by Carter Barcelona. It’s very pleasant — classified by Fragrantica as a “citrus aromatic.” Per Fragrantica, top notes are Bergamot and Saffron; middle notes are Sea Notes and Sand; base notes are Ambroxan, Virginia Cedar and Amber. It lasts well on my skin for 5-6 hours then still lingering faintly after 7 hours. It is entirely unisex, in my opinion.

I don’t often wear fragrances like this, as my tastes run very much to florals and even powdery aldehydes. I also love chypres and greens, which I think lean more unisex in a traditional analysis, though I do believe anyone can wear whatever fragrance they like! Costarela is a pleasing option for this time of year and hot weather, a nice mix of freshness tempered by gentle warmth and woodiness.

Can you think of or recommend other fragrances you would group with “citrus aromatics”?

Perfume Chat Room, August 1

Perfume Chat Room, August 1

Rabbit rabbit! Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, August 1, and I remembered to say “rabbit rabbit” for good luck, so we may be off to a good start. It has been beastly hot all week, with the heat index well above 100 degrees Fahrenheit on most days due to the high humidity. In the last two,days, we’ve had some rain showers which have helped a bit, and relieve me of some watering duties in the garden.

I’ve been inside a lot, and I’m trying to do a bit of work every day to organize my “stuff.” This includes fragrances; I’m using the Perfumist app to at least list what I have, whatever the size (I have many travel sizes from when I had a monthly subscription).

Some of my scent subscription goodies!

I enjoyed those subscriptions very much and they introduced me to some scents that are now firm favorites. I stopped using them a while ago, because my collection had gotten very large, but I might resume subscribing in the future. Meanwhile, I’m enjoying how easy it is to catalog them using an app, especially since I expect August will continue to be too hot and muggy for me to spend much time outside.

Do you have any big plans for August?

Perfume Chat Room, July 25

Perfume Chat Room, July 25

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, July 25, and I did indeed go see the exhibit of couture by Mme. Jeanne Lanvin, as I mentioned last week.

“On another topic, I’m eagerly looking forward to a fashion exhibit that I plan to go see with friends next week. It is the first ever American retrospective exhibit of the work of the French couturiere Madame Jeanne Lanvin.”

As I wrote last week, Madame Lanvin launched a legendary fragrance, Arpège, in 1927, so it is almost 100 years old! It is a floral aldehyde, like its contemporary Chanel No. 5, and it is a complex bouquet of notes that include aldehydes, lily of the valley, peach, honeysuckle, neroli, bergamot, jasmine, ylang ylang, iris, coriander, rose, lily, geranium, camellia, sandalwood, amber, vetiver, musk, benzoin, vanilla, and patchouli. It has been reformulated over the years, but as recently as 2008, perfume critic Luca Turin gave it four stars, calling it a “unisex classic”, and “an elegant, nutty, woody floral with an overall cashmere beige tonality that would be very dowdy on all but a guy.”

The beautiful classic Arpège bottle of black with gold shows a stylized Art Deco figure of a mother and daughter, which is supposed to represent Mme. Lanvin and her daughter, who chose the fragrance’s name. I have a miniature bottle of the eau de parfum:

Arpège in miniature

I’ve dabbed it on my wrist a couple of times this week to get reacquainted, and it’s really very nice. Loads of aldehydes, of course, but to me it smells more floral than No.5. I smell the peach, the honeysuckle, the ylang ylang, a bit of the jasmine, a little rose and lily, and the wonderful, warm base notes. Turin is right, the dry down does smell the way cashmere feels, but I don’t find it dowdy. The base is really marvelous, though a little goes a long way in the current heatwave! It’s really more of a formal scent for cooler weather.

Speaking of not dowdy, the outfits and sketches in the exhibit it were wonderful, and many were surprisingly modern.

“Corysande”

The workmanship on all the garments was extraordinary. All were hand sewn and hand embroidered. The fabrics were exquisite, even the ones that dated to before World War II. You can find out more about the exhibit at Jeanne Lanvin exhibit.

Have you rediscovered any classic vintage fragrances recently?

Perfume Chat Room, July 18

Perfume Chat Room, July 18

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, July 18, and WordPress tells me today is my tenth anniversary on WordPress! Wow. It honestly doesn’t feel as if I began that long ago! I so appreciate those of you who have come on the blogging journey with me, whether years ago or just this year. Special thanks to my regular commenters: you make every post so much more interesting! Even more special thanks to Portia Turbo of Australian Perfume Junkies, who has so kindly involved me in some really fun fragrance blog projects. Let’s do that again some time! The past week also brought Bastille Day: Vive la France!

Eiffel Tower in Paris with Bastille Day fireworks
Bastille Day fireworks; image from http://www.eurotunnel.com.

On another topic, I’m eagerly looking forward to a fashion exhibit that I plan to go see with friends next week. It is the first ever American retrospective exhibit of the work of the French couturiere Madame Jeanne Lanvin. As some of you will remember, the same venue hosted a major exhibit of the work of Madame Grès two years ago, which was, as they say, to die for. She was also known for a legendary fragrance, Cabochard.

Madame Lanvin was also the inspiration for a legendary fragrance: Arpège. Arpège premiered in 1927, so it is almost 100 years old! It is a floral aldehyde, like its contemporary Chanel No. 5, and it is a complex bouquet of notes that include aldehydes, lily of the valley, peach, honeysuckle, neroli, bergamot, jasmine, ylang ylang, iris, coriander, rose, lily, geranium, camellia, sandalwood, amber, vetiver, musk, benzoin, vanilla, and patchouli. It has, of course, been reformulated over the years. As recently as 2008, though, perfume critic Luca Turin still gave it four stars, calling it a “unisex classic”, and “an elegant, nutty, woody floral with an overall cashmere beige tonality that would be vey dowdy on all but a guy.”

The beautiful classic Arpège bottle of black with gold shows a stylized Art Deco figure of a mother and daughter, which is supposed to represent Mme. Lanvin and her daughter, who chose the fragrance’s name. I must confess, I’ve never really worn Arpège. Have you? What are your thoughts?

Perfume Chat Room, July 4

Perfume Chat Room, July 4

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, July 4, and it has been a week. Suffice it to say, I’m not feeling particularly celebratory — but by God, my family has served the United States since before there even was a United States, so I’m trying to keep things in perspective and not let the Fourth of July and its meaning get taken from me. Independence and freedom cost too many too much to let them go without a fight, as we were reminded last summer on our trip to Normandy and the D-Day beaches.

On a lighter note, one of my multi-great grandfathers, after whom my father was named, like his father and grandfather and a few more ancestors before that, is mentioned in the Papers of George Washington for having complained to the General that he had been beaten by an officer in the Continental Army. My ancestor was in the state militia and viewed himself as independent of the regular army officers. Apparently he had sassed the officer, who took it upon himself to inflict corporal punishment. General Washington, bless him, took the complaint seriously and ordered an investigation. As if he had nothing else on his mind!

So for the Fourth, I thought I’d write about an all-American fragrance: Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy Girl. Created by Calice Becker and launched in 1996, it is sold in a red, white, and blue striped bottle, presented as just the kind of youthful, fresh fragrance a true American Girl would wear.

But, of course, there’s much more to it than that, and Luca Turin gave it five stars in the first edition of his book “Perfumes: The Guide.”

Fragrantica lists its notes as follows: “Top notes are Apple Tree Blossom, Mandarin Orange, Camelia and Black Currant; middle notes are Lemon, Honeysuckle, Grapefruit, Rose, Lily, Mint and Violet; base notes are Magnolia, Jasmine, Cedar, Sandalwood and Leather.”

M. Turin describes Tommy Girl as a tea base “clothed … in a fresh floral accord so exhilaratingly bright that it could be used to set the white point for all future fragrances.” I assume that in this case, “camellia” refers to camellia sinensis, the plant from which tea leaves are derived. Apparently, the base tea accord was inspired by the complex scents in the famous Paris tea store, Mariage Frères. Some of the notes listed absolutely appear in various tea blends, such as lemon, jasmine, rose, mint.

Not surprisingly, since I love tea, I find Tommy Girl very pleasant to wear, especially in the heat and humidity we’re having here now. It goes on fresh and it stays fresh, just with different citrus and floral notes emerging as it evolves. My nose doesn’t pick up any leather accord, though.

Have you tried Tommy Girl lately? Are there any other fragrances you consider “All-American”?

The flag at half mast for Memorial Day, the American Cemetery, Normandy
Perfume Chat Room, June 27

Perfume Chat Room, June 27

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, June 27, and we are back from Copenhagen! While there, I discovered a small niche perfumery called Crime Passional, which had a very nice selection of niche perfumes and a very friendly staff.

I hadn’t really been searching for perfumes, but came across Crime Passionel while wandering through the area of the city between the Christiansborg Palace and the University of Copenhagen, so of course I dropped in. The store was pretty small but certainly made the most of its space!

We had the most wonderful time in Copenhagen, and also wonderful weather! The high temperatures were mostly in the 60s (Fahrenheit), topping out at 70, and the days were sunny and clear, with very little humidity. We saw the major sights, including a day trip by train to Helsingør and Kronborg, and had fun experiences like seeing the changing of the guard, eating seafood in Nyhavn, visiting the National Museum, and watching the three-masted training ship return to port after a months-long voyage.

We spent an afternoon and evening at Tivoli Gardens, watched a traditional pantomime, and saw the start of a pop concert packed with local teenagers who were all having a jolly time. In general, the people we met all week were nice, friendly, and cheerful. All spoke excellent English, though we made the effort to master a few words of Danish, especially “thank you.”

We walked almost everywhere and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. I’m looking forward to another visit to see more of Scandinavia! Now we’re staying put through the rest of the summer, and I hope to tackle numerous projects, including sorting through and reorganizing my fragrances. Any helpful tips on that?

Perfume Chat Room, June 13

Perfume Chat Room, June 13

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, June 13, and now I’m on my way to Copenhagen! I wanted to share with you some of my photos from the Barnes Fragrance Fair, since I wasn’t able to upload several of them in my last post.

Do any of you have recommendations for Copenhagen, fragrance-related or otherwise? Thanks!

Perfume Chat Room, May 16

Perfume Chat Room, May 16

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, May 16, and I did a perfume-making workshop in London this week with Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays! It was held in her studio in Hammersmith, in a very appealing neighborhood.

Sarah McCartney, 4160 Tuesdays

It was so much fun. Sarah focused the workshop on sustainability in perfumery and did an excellent job explaining to the group how each ingredient she had chosen for the workshop relates to that theme. As a lover of rose scents, my favorite was the rose absolute derived from upcycled rose petals. As a gardener, my favorite was the vetiver, which was harvested via a different method that leaves half the plant and, importantly, its whole root system to prevent erosion.

Tester strips for the substances we used

Sarah also did an outstanding job explaining how perfumery is a mix of math and chemistry, as she taught us to combine different substances in different ratios on filter paper, which we would then try to translate into the proportions we would use in our final creations.

The book you see on the left is the full weeklong program for London Craft Week, which has been this week. Sarah’s workshop was part of that.

Some of our workshop materials

I used Sarah’s base of “Soft Musks” for my own creation. I can’t describe it any better than she can, so here’s the info.

Made from readily biodegradable materials. These molecules enhance the aromas of natural materials, and extend a fragrance’s longevity, to make a more wearable longer lasting fragrance. They take the place of components lost during the process of extracting natural materials. Historically animal materials, like musk, ambergris and civet, were used for these effects.

To that base, I added compounds based on rose, lily, orange, raspberry.

My own perfume!
Part of Sarah’s collection of perfumes

Sarah also has an important collection of perfumes, many of which she used in writing her book with Samantha Scriven, “The Perfume Companion”, which I highly recommend if you can get a copy (I think it’s still available on Kindle if you can’t find a hard copy).

Sarah McCartney

I had a fabulous time and I learned so much! Sustainability is important, and it’s wonderful to know of the progress in this area.

Do you have any thoughts or insights about sustainability in perfumery?