Perfume Chat Room, October 4

Perfume Chat Room, October 4

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, October 4, and it has been an eventful week! Not so much personally, but since last Friday, my part of the US has seen untold, unimaginable damage from flooding and winds arising from Hurricane Helene. Western North Carolina, a forested, mountainous region with many rivers and creeks, saw floods that were the worst on record, even including a massive, historic flood in 1916. My own region got the most rainfall in 48 hours that it has had since the 1880s. Rescues and repairs are ongoing; everyone from the federal government agencies to local volunteers, and every group you can imagine in between, has offered resources and support. My favorite volunteer group to date is the troupe of pack mules and their keepers, who were trucked to a staging location and are packing supplies up the mountain roads that vehicles still can’t travel.

Mountain Mule Packer Ranch to the rescue!

On a lighter note, this week I’ve been trying out another of my bargain beauty purchases from London: Brocard’s Color Feeling Purple. Wow! This one’s a real keeper, and what a bargain at 15 pounds! It is a sweet violet fragrance with a blackberry accord that mingles beautifully with the powdery vibe of violet and iris. The perfumer is Dominique Moellhausen, whose family owns a Milan-based company that has been in the fragrance industry for over 50 years, both creating fragrances and selling raw materials and aromachemicals.

The notes listed on Fragrantica for Color Feeling Purple are: violet, blackberry, iris, heliotrope, oakmoss, cedar, amber, vetiver, orchid. It opens with a blast of violet and blackberry, and as it dries down it gets warmer and more powdery. I really like the blackberry note combined with violet. As the scent dries down, the violet remains dominant but the fruity blackberry note is slowly replaced by powdery iris and heliotrope. The drydown is warmed by the notes of amber, vetiver, and oakmoss; I don’t really smell cedar, and I never know what perfumers mean when they say there’s a note of “orchid”, since many orchids don’t have a distinctive scent and those that do, mostly smell to me like vanilla (vanilla comes from an orchid plant). Bloom Perfumery, where I bought this, describes the scent on its website as “holding sugared violets candy with leather gloves.” I’m not perceiving leather very much at all, but the longer it dries down on my skin, the more plausible that becomes. Color Feeling Purple has a more complex, interesting progression than one might expect from an inexpensive fragrance.

What a pleasant surprise! Have you tried any fragrances lately that surprised you?

Brocard’s Color Feeling Purple; image from Bloom Perfumery
Scented Advent, December 7

Scented Advent, December 7

Today’s Guerlain Advent sample is Rose Chérie, launched in 2021 and created by perfumer Delphine Jelk. The only notes listed for it are: Bulgarian rose, rose, violet, heliotrope, tonka, and musk. It is meant to evoke the chic of Paris and “la vie en rose.” The fragrance smells pink, too, like a fresh pink rose but with no greenery attached. The heliotrope accord is immediately evident to my nose; I really enjoy heliotrope in fragrances, I like the powdery aspect it lends. Here, it blends with the violet and rose accords to create a scent reminiscent of pink lipstick and face powder. The scent itself isn’t as retro as that sounds, though.

The heliotrope accord also smells like a mix of almond and vanilla, giving Rose Chérie a slight hint of gourmandise. It isn’t an actual gourmand fragrance though, which I appreciate because I have a limited tolerance for those. If there is any food it brings to my mind, that would be delicate pink macarons, lightly dusted with sugar. Now my mouth is watering, remembering the stacks of rainbow-hued macarons I saw in Nice a few years ago, in the patisseries of the old town and market.

Pile of pink macarons with flowers
Pink macarons; image from The Preppy Kitchen.

Rose Chérie definitely leans toward the feminine end of the spectrum, but it could smell wonderful on a man. It doesn’t last as well on my skin as, say, Épices Volées, but its longevity is fine. Its development is quite straightforward, almost linear to my nose. The tonka bean emerges after a while, once the floral notes have mostly faded. It gives a little oomph to the fragrance, like vanilla without any sugar.

This is a very pretty rose, and if you like semi-gourmand florals, you should probably try it if you get the chance. I own so many rose fragrances (hello, Roses de Mai Marathon!) that I wouldn’t feel the need to add this one; besides, I tend to favor richer or greener rose scents. But sometimes, one just wants a macaron! Do you have any favorite gourmand florals?

May Melange Marathon: Modest Mimosa

May Melange Marathon: Modest Mimosa

See what I did there? I’m so pleased with myself for that headline. But in fact, my SOTD today is Vilhelm Parfumerie’s Modest Mimosa, from another sample kindly given to me. Aside from the marvelous alliteration, I like it a lot. It won’t be a top love for me because I’ve realized that mimosa isn’t one of my favorite notes; there are other blossoms I prefer, although I’ve enjoyed mimosa-based scents like Brocard’s Mechta. Jerome Epinette created Modest Mimosa in 2016. It has a fairly short list of notes: top: Neroli and Carrot; middle: Mimosa and Violet; base: Musk and Leather.

I smell the mimosa and violet right from the start, with some carrot, but very little neroli. The violet is quite powdery and very discernible, which is probably why some Fragrantica readers have said it reminds them of Apres L’Ondee. But mimosa is front and center, and it’s not modest at all. This isn’t an overpowering scent, not at all, but the mimosa announces herself at the very beginning and takes up residence at center stage.

To my nose, Modest Mimosa doesn’t evolve or change very much over time. Luckily, it smells very nice indeed. Powdery yellow floral describes it perfectly. Its list retail price is quite high, looking at LuckyScent’s website; I would not pay that much for it, but if you are a lover of mimosa and can find this at a better price, it might be just the ticket. Undina, at Undina’s Looking Glass, has several suggestions, in a number of posts about her search for the perfect mimosa.

Do you like mimosa fragrances? Or have you ever gone in search of a perfect floral note in a perfume?

Illustration for Brocard fragrance Mechta, from Gardens of Temptation
Brocard Mechta; image from http://www.brocard.ru.