Perfume Chat Room, May 16

Perfume Chat Room, May 16

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, May 16, and I did a perfume-making workshop in London this week with Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays! It was held in her studio in Hammersmith, in a very appealing neighborhood.

Sarah McCartney, 4160 Tuesdays

It was so much fun. Sarah focused the workshop on sustainability in perfumery and did an excellent job explaining to the group how each ingredient she had chosen for the workshop relates to that theme. As a lover of rose scents, my favorite was the rose absolute derived from upcycled rose petals. As a gardener, my favorite was the vetiver, which was harvested via a different method that leaves half the plant and, importantly, its whole root system to prevent erosion.

Tester strips for the substances we used

Sarah also did an outstanding job explaining how perfumery is a mix of math and chemistry, as she taught us to combine different substances in different ratios on filter paper, which we would then try to translate into the proportions we would use in our final creations.

The book you see on the left is the full weeklong program for London Craft Week, which has been this week. Sarah’s workshop was part of that.

Some of our workshop materials

I used Sarah’s base of “Soft Musks” for my own creation. I can’t describe it any better than she can, so here’s the info.

Made from readily biodegradable materials. These molecules enhance the aromas of natural materials, and extend a fragrance’s longevity, to make a more wearable longer lasting fragrance. They take the place of components lost during the process of extracting natural materials. Historically animal materials, like musk, ambergris and civet, were used for these effects.

To that base, I added compounds based on rose, lily, orange, raspberry.

My own perfume!
Part of Sarah’s collection of perfumes

Sarah also has an important collection of perfumes, many of which she used in writing her book with Samantha Scriven, “The Perfume Companion”, which I highly recommend if you can get a copy (I think it’s still available on Kindle if you can’t find a hard copy).

Sarah McCartney

I had a fabulous time and I learned so much! Sustainability is important, and it’s wonderful to know of the progress in this area.

Do you have any thoughts or insights about sustainability in perfumery?

Notes on Notes: Oakmoss

Notes on Notes: Oakmoss

Happy New Year! I wish you all a happy, healthy 2023! This year brings a new collaboration between me and Portia Turbo of Australian Perfume Junkies (and other sites as a regular guest blogger). Actually, it’s TWO new collaborations. The first is called “Notes on Notes”; Portia and I agree on a fragrance note we’d like to write about, and we’ll post our “notes” about it on the first Monday of each month, referring to a few specific fragrances. The second project is called “Counterpoint”; we’ll agree on a fragrance, and “interview” ourselves about it, seeing where our experiences coincide and where they differ.

I’m excited about these collaborations – I had such fun doing “Scent Semantics” with Portia and several other bloggers in 2022. I hope many of you will jump in and add your own observations and comments!

The first “Notes on Notes” is about oakmoss.

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