Perfume Chat Room, July 4

Perfume Chat Room, July 4

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, July 4, and it has been a week. Suffice it to say, I’m not feeling particularly celebratory — but by God, my family has served the United States since before there even was a United States, so I’m trying to keep things in perspective and not let the Fourth of July and its meaning get taken from me. Independence and freedom cost too many too much to let them go without a fight, as we were reminded last summer on our trip to Normandy and the D-Day beaches.

On a lighter note, one of my multi-great grandfathers, after whom my father was named, like his father and grandfather and a few more ancestors before that, is mentioned in the Papers of George Washington for having complained to the General that he had been beaten by an officer in the Continental Army. My ancestor was in the state militia and viewed himself as independent of the regular army officers. Apparently he had sassed the officer, who took it upon himself to inflict corporal punishment. General Washington, bless him, took the complaint seriously and ordered an investigation. As if he had nothing else on his mind!

So for the Fourth, I thought I’d write about an all-American fragrance: Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy Girl. Created by Calice Becker and launched in 1996, it is sold in a red, white, and blue striped bottle, presented as just the kind of youthful, fresh fragrance a true American Girl would wear.

But, of course, there’s much more to it than that, and Luca Turin gave it five stars in the first edition of his book “Perfumes: The Guide.”

Fragrantica lists its notes as follows: “Top notes are Apple Tree Blossom, Mandarin Orange, Camelia and Black Currant; middle notes are Lemon, Honeysuckle, Grapefruit, Rose, Lily, Mint and Violet; base notes are Magnolia, Jasmine, Cedar, Sandalwood and Leather.”

M. Turin describes Tommy Girl as a tea base “clothed … in a fresh floral accord so exhilaratingly bright that it could be used to set the white point for all future fragrances.” I assume that in this case, “camellia” refers to camellia sinensis, the plant from which tea leaves are derived. Apparently, the base tea accord was inspired by the complex scents in the famous Paris tea store, Mariage Frères. Some of the notes listed absolutely appear in various tea blends, such as lemon, jasmine, rose, mint.

Not surprisingly, since I love tea, I find Tommy Girl very pleasant to wear, especially in the heat and humidity we’re having here now. It goes on fresh and it stays fresh, just with different citrus and floral notes emerging as it evolves. My nose doesn’t pick up any leather accord, though.

Have you tried Tommy Girl lately? Are there any other fragrances you consider “All-American”?

The flag at half mast for Memorial Day, the American Cemetery, Normandy
Scent Sample Sunday: Tokyo Spring Blossom

Scent Sample Sunday: Tokyo Spring Blossom

When I won a CaFleureBon draw for 4160 Tuesdays’ White Queen, brand founder and perfumer Sarah McCartney kindly included two travel sprays in the package, because UK shipping restrictions meant she could only send me a smaller size of White Queen than originally described. I was delighted, because it gave me the opportunity to try two more 4160 Tuesdays scents! One of them was Tokyo Spring Blossom, which I’ve been wearing off and on all week. It was originally launched in 2011 under the name Urura’s Tokyo Cafe, after a friend of Ms. McCartney’s for whom she first created the fragrance, Urura Shiinoki, owner of the Green Ginger Cafe in Tokyo.

The 4160 Tuesdays website describes it as “the scent of a spring breeze blowing through tree blossom.” Apparently the name Urura can be translated into English as “breeze in the cherry blossoms”, so that inspired the scent, although none of its notes are actually cherry blossoms. The notes are described differently on various websites, and the text on the 4160 Tuesdays site doesn’t seem to list them all, but they appear to be a combination of: a mix of citruses with pink grapefruit, tangerine and mandarin orange; middle notes of violet and rose; base notes of opoponax, Sarah’s favorite raspberry leaf accord, tolu balsam and raspberry. The description of the fragrance’s progression that most closely aligns with my own experience comes from a 2015 review on CaFleureBon, by Susie Baird:

Atop is a sparkling citrus, which feels very bright and airy. Almost as soon as those petals have opened a slightly more aromatic accord appears, herby and green. The perfume is now dappled with shade between the rose bushes. This is most certainly not a rose-centric fragrance though; the floral bouquet is seamlessly woven together with crisp greens and sharp tangerine, creating an image of a flower garden gently swaying in a summer breeze.

From beneath, sweet Myrrh stains the green and pink with umber tones. Here it gives the impression of a great splash of strong green tea, saturating the base of the scent with a resinous solemnity, as if the breeze has momentarily dropped and the sun stepped behind a cloud. It is cooling and pleasant to experience the resin balanced by the green goodness of geranium and rose. It has all the atmospheric depth that incense can bring to a fragrance, without any of the smokiness.

Yes! I think the greenness from the start comes from the raspberry leaf accord, which is listed on Fragrantica as a base note, but I smell it almost from the start, and then it lasts throughout. I smell suggestions of green tea, as described above, more than I smell roses, but I do pick up the violet heart note, which adds to the greenness but also lends a slightly powdery, floral note. Of course, high quality green tea does itself have floral fragrance notes which can vary widely; and green tea is a very traditional Japanese drink.  In fact, to my nose, this stage of Tokyo Spring Blossom smells very much like a specific form of green tea: matcha.

The 4160 Tuesdays website includes one of its pretty graphics to describe this scent:

Eau de parfum Tokyo Spring Blossom or Urura's Tokyo Cafe, by 4160 Tuesdays

Tokyo Spring Blossom, 4160 Tuesdays

I like this scent very much, though I think I was more delighted by White Queen, which is odd because usually I much prefer floral scents to gourmand scents. Luckily, in life it is possible to combine both the floral and the gourmand. The featured image above comes from the website for a specialty tea merchant called Steven Smith Teamaker, created by and named after the founder of Stash and Tazo tea companies. The company thoughtfully provides its own recipe for a matcha green tea latte, shown in the featured image. Enjoy!

Do you have any favorite fragrances that remind you of tea, whether or not they are named for tea? The Bvlgari Eaux Parfumees au The series comes to mind right away; I have and enjoy three of them (The Vert, The Bleu, The Rouge). Any others?

Steven Smith, Teamaker, matcha green tea latter with spring blossoms

Matcha green tea latte from Steven Smith Teamaker