Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.
Today is Sunday, October 19, and I am the lucky and grateful recipient of several new fragrances! Our oldest daughter returned from her trip to Italy with a roller bottle of extract de parfum from Casa Amalfi, called Blue Grotto. It’s a very pleasing, unisex, citrus aromatic, launched in 2025.
My husband just got back from a work trip to Las Vegas, where he stayed in a hotel with an onsite Santa Maria Novella boutique. He asked which of their fragrances I might like, and since I already have a couple and didn’t know much about the others, I requested their discovery set. I also (shame on me) admitted that there is a new fragrance I was eager to try: the 100th anniversary flanker to Shalimar, Shalimar L’Essence.
Reader, I love it. I was pretty sure I would, and I knew that at least I would like it, based on the reviews I had read, which prompted the blind buy. It is really gorgeous, and I say that as someone who has had a mixed reaction to Shalimar and flankers. Of the older versions, the one I’ve liked most was the eau de cologne, because it didn’t have a strong tarry note, which is what “leather” notes in fragrance sometimes smell like to me.
Enter the 100th anniversary flanker, in its beautiful bottle!
It has lots of vanilla, with just a soupçon of lemon at the start, then just a hint of lavender and leather or tobacco, undergirded by iris and rose. It lasts for several hours on my skin, and a little goes a long way; I’ve been applying light sprays to my wrists and one at the base of my neck, and that’s plenty. I will enjoy getting to know this new addition, created by perfumer Delphine Jelk.
Do you have a favorite version or flanker of Shalimar? Have you tried this new one?
Serenity Now Scents and Sensibilities 
I almost ordered the Shalimar for the bottle, then realized that it was foolish as I knew I wouldn’t wear it much. I picked up Blue Grotto in Positano last May and enjoy it, my only perfume purchase on our brief, action packed trip.
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At the store they told my daughter that Blue Grotto was their most popular scent. It’s really nice! I’m enjoying the Shalimar in this fall weather.
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Shalimar Essence is my favorite, but I also love the Millesime Iris Shalimar. I like the final drydown of original Shalimar, but the leather note is too strong for me overall.
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Lucky Lucky you OH!
Jin has the new Shalimar put away for Xmas. You know how much I love them all.
OOOH! A Discovery Sea of SMN! That’s going to be excellent fun too.
Portia xx
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You will love this one! What a sweetie Jin is — aren’t we lucky to have such nice spouses? Yes, I’m looking forward to trying the various SMN scents next. And I must pull out my other Florence fragrances, from Aquaflor and Farmacia SS Annunziata 1561, both lovely perfumeries.
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I think we are both definitely in the fortunate spouse choice club. To be fair though, we are both pretty special and worth it.
A Florentine Fragrance Affair at chez OH!
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Do you think Shalimar L’Essence really is Shalimar Millesime Vanilla Planifolia? I know Delphine Jelk has told many fragrance influencers it is, but I found Shalimar MVP to be harsh & plasticky. L’Essence smells far smoother & natural.
Excellent Italian haul. I look forward to reading your thought on them
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I don’t know! I never tried Shalimar MVP. L’Essence didn’t smell harsh or plastic to me. Maybe it’s a similar formula made with better materials…
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P.S. I just did a quick search, and Victoria at Bois de Jasmin says it is a “revival” of the MVP formula. She’s so knowledgeable, I would trust her assessment.
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Yes, I read both Victoria’s & Alice du Parcq’s columns saying the same thing. Yet my nose tells me different. Whatever, I’m loving L’Essence too
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