Perfume Chat Room, April 19

Perfume Chat Room, April 19

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, April 19, and our oldest daughter just got accepted into her top choice graduate program! We are so thrilled for her, and proud of her hard work.

Speaking of work, I’ve been hard at work in my garden for days, since the cold rain stopped. The rain is paying off in many fragrant flowers, though. Fragrance is one of my top requirements for a new plant, though I do make occasional exceptions! The rose below has become a favorite cause it is so reliable, healthy, and fragrant.

Honey Nectar rose

Roses are not the only fragrant blossoms in my garden right now:

Fragrant native azalea

The native azaleas of the Southeast have a sweet fragrance like a cross between honeysuckle and jasmine. The delicacy of the flowers belies how far their scent carries. I think it is one of those scents that would be very hard for a perfumer to replicate.

Speaking of perfumers, what did you all think of the news that Frederic Malle is leaving the brand he founded? Do you have a favorite in that line?

Perfume Chat Room, April 12

Perfume Chat Room, April 12

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, April 12, and we had a total solar eclipse in the US this week! It was actually quite exciting, even though I don’t live in the path of totality. NASA had live-stream coverage from several locations, and that included scanning the crowds in various venues to show their reactions when the sky went dark. Where I live, the outside light got dimmer and we could see crescent-shaped shadows where the partially obscured sun’s rays were filtered by coming through the leaves of trees (a phenomenon I remember from 2017).

Eclipse shadows

In 2017, I chose Jean Patou’s L’Heure Attendue as my SOTD for that eclipse, the Collection Heritage version by Thomas Fontaine. Sadly, Jean Patou perfumes are no more, having been equally and totally eclipsed by its new owners. This year, I wore Guerlain’s Chant d’Aromes, which I’ve been alternating recently with Diorella. They have several notes in common and I think both can be fairly described as “citrus chypres.” A modern citrus chypre that I love is 4160 Tuesdays’ Meet Me On the Corner, by Sarah McCartney. Interestingly, although L’Heure Attendue is definitely not a citrus chypre, it too shares some of the floral notes that Diorella and Chant d’Aromes have in common. Do you associate any fragrance(s) with eclipses, or the sun, or other natural phenomena?

And speaking of natural phenomena, here are my azaleas at peak bloom recently:

Perfume Chat Room, March 29

Perfume Chat Room, March 29

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, March 29, and it is Good Friday in the Western Christian world (the dates when the Eastern Orthodox Church celebrates Good Friday and Easter are different). For the first time, I was able to go downtown to my church and help with all the labor that goes into the magnificent floral arrangements we enjoy at Easter. Even though Good Friday is a somber day, it was lovely to work with my hands with a very congenial group of fellow parishioners and handle the gorgeous flowers. The large room where we were working was filled with their fragrance, especially the lilies but also roses and stock.

There were many other flowers but those were the most fragrant. As I smelled it, I kept thinking it reminded me of an actual perfume, and then I realized what it was: Cartier’s Carat.

A fraction of the flowers to be arranged for Easter Sunday

Created by Mathilde Laurent in 2018, I feel as if Carat has never gotten much vocal love among perfumistas. I like it very much, especially in the spring. It was meant to constitute a fragrant evocation of diamonds, with their prismatic reflection of the whole color spectrum, each component color represented by a different flower.

To accomplish this, the perfume maker decided to imitate an optical phoneme that is characteristic of diamonds: diffraction of color. So she chose seven different fresh flowers that, when combined, formed a new, abstract flower.

The composition represents the colors of rainbow in the form of flowers; violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange and red are captured with the notes of violet, lily, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, narcissus, honeysuckle and tulips.

Per Fragrantica, top notes are Green Notes, Pear and Bergamot; middle notes are Hyacinth, Tulip, Narcissus, Lily, Honeysuckle, Violet and Ylang-Ylang; base notes are Mimosa and White Musk. I agree with one reviewer who also smelled lilac; I have a small lilac blooming on my patio right now, and it definitely makes an appearance in Carat. It reminds me of the lilac in Jean Patou’s Vacances, the Collection Heritage version created by Thomas Fontaine in 2014.

Now that my nose has associated Carat with arranging Easter flowers, I think I’ll have to wear it on Easter Sunday, together with a hat. If you celebrate Easter or another spring holiday, do you have any favorite fragrances you associate with the holiday? And do you have any special Easter or other spring holiday traditions?

Perfume Chat Room, March 22

Perfume Chat Room, March 22

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, March 22, and yesterday was Fragrance Day, per the Fragrance Foundation. Did you wear any special fragrance in honor of the day? I love that Fragrance Day falls in the same week as the first day of spring in the Northern Hemisphere, that seems so fitting given that my garden and others are bursting with fragrant flowers right now. Also, “Paris Perfume Week” is underway, from March 21-24. How I wish I were there! Maybe next year … anyone care to come? It appears there are many events that non-professionals can attend (with a ticket).

I’m still enjoying my souvenir of Paris, Fragonard’s Narcisse, which was its flower scent of the year in 2023. I chose it because on our recent trip, there were daffodils in bloom everywhere we went, including Versailles. Elena Vosnaki of Fragrantica chose it as one of her favorite fragrances of 2023. My heart still belongs to Ostara, for a true daffodil fragrance, but Narcisse is very pretty. It’s light and fresh, with a lot of citrus in its opening. The picture on the bottle shows Narcissus poeticus, a late-blooming white narcissus with a small, red and yellow ‘eye” in its center, and that is what it smells like as opposed to daffodils. More lemony and less musky. A very nice spring scent! It doesn’t last long but I enjoy it while it does.

We are entering my favorite fragrance season, spring. As regulars here know, I love my floral and green fragrances! Of course I can wear them year-round, but the spring is when I really love wearing them, as they blend seamlessly with the fragrant air outside. RIght now, the smell of fresh flowers inside my house is coming from a bunch of sweet pea blossoms that a friend gave me yesterday. I love them! I’ve tried before to grow them in my garden, without success. I just haven’t mastered the timing, as they hate hot weather. I think I’d have to plant seeds in the fall to have any chance. Meanwhile, their delicate blossoms are scenting an entire room; they don’t even look real.

Do you have any favorite sweet pea fragrances? Caron had one for a long time called Pois de Senteur, which they reformulated and reissued in 2021, but I’ve never smelled it. Last year, Jo Malone had a new fragrance called English Pear and Sweet Pea, so I may have to go try that at a nearby department store. Have you tried it? Thoughts on it?

Perfume Chat Room, March 15

Perfume Chat Room, March 15

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, March 15, and we’re back from Paris! What a wonderful trip we had. It was our first visit back to Paris since our honeymoon, decades ago. Although we’ve been lucky enough to visit other parts of France since then, we hadn’t yet been back to Paris. Early March isn’t the ideal time of year, just because the weather in Paris at that time can be cold and rainy, and we got a bit of both, but less than we had expected during the daytime. We revisited several of Paris’ “greatest hits”, like the Louvre and the Sainte Chapelle, but we also just walked around a lot — and yes, we visited some perfume stores! I had to adjust my list but was more than satisfied with the places we reached, some of which hadn’t been on my list!

View from a boat on the Seine

Some of you probably knew this, but I hadn’t realized that the Marais district now has so many perfumeries! Some are brand-specific, and one lovely stop was an independent perfumery called “Sens Unique”, which one of you had suggested. We stumbled across several that I hadn’t known would be in that area, and couldn’t possibly visit them all.

Sens Unique perfumery

We also visited the Palais Royal, home to both Serge Lutens and Parfums de Rosine. I got a warm welcome at both boutiques — in fact, contrary to Paris’ reputation (which I think is very outdated), we received a warm welcome everywhere we went.

Parfums de Rosine Boutique

As hoped, a few of the Palais Royal’s pink magnolias were starting to bloom, and we saw many daffodils in bloom all over Paris (and at Versailles, where we spent a happy, sunny day). Although we didn’t make it to the Fragonard perfume museum, I did buy a bottle of Fragonard’s Narcisse as a souvenir of our trip. I was very good, though — I bought one travel spray at Parfums de Rosine (Bulle de Rose) and a few discovery sets elsewhere. TBH, I probably would have bought more than one travel spray at Parfums de Rosine, but very few of their fragrances come in that size. I didn’t buy anything at Serge Lutens because 1) I was a bit overwhelmed by the range and variety; and 2) the one that most interested me, De Profundis, was being sold in the “gratte-ciel” bottle, which I don’t like, not in the famous bell jar. They might have been able to find one for me if I had asked, I suppose, but I was also deterred by the high price.

The Palais Royal

The Bon Marché department store currently has an installation throughout its Left Bank store called “Mise en Page”, with displays around the theme of books and reading. This included the ground floor fragrance area, and the display was very charming. I had hoped there might be a special fragrance for the event, but what was on offer were current fragrances from houses like Diptyque, Frederic Malle, and Byredo. Still fun, though!

Mise en Page at Bon Marche

Believe it or not, Paris is about to have its first ever “Paris Perfume Week“, organized by Nez, starting March 21! If this becomes an annual event, which I hope it will, I’ll have to time future visits to Paris accordingly. It is a combination trade show for the industry and showcase for the public, with various programs and lectures that non-professionals can attend. I love the whole idea!

Some of you asked me to comment on food, so here goes! Three of our favorite spots were: La Fontaine de Mars; Les Petits Pois; and Le Quartier Latin. La Fontaine de Mars is a classic French brasserie near the Eiffel Tower, with dishes like duck confit and cassoulet. A signature appetizer of theirs is eggs baked in red wine — OMG, so yummy! Now I want the recipe. Les Petits Pois is a tiny, French modern restaurant near the Jardin des Plantes. Very reasonably priced with very original, high quality food. The dessert I had was hands-down the best I’ve eaten in years: it was basically a stack of chocolate sable cookies, slathered with cream, meringue, and chocolate sauce. Absolutely divine! Le Quartier Latin is actually an Italian restaurant that was a short walk from our hotel on the Left Bank. We went twice, because the food was so good and the host so welcoming. We enjoyed both their pasta and their pizza. Reservations are recommended for all three, and are easier to get if you want to eat when they open at 7 pm. We also had the legendary hot chocolate and Mont Blanc pastry at a branch of Angelina, as a break during our LONG visit to the Louvre. The hot chocolate was truly amazing, and the perfect museum pick-me-up. The Mont Blanc pastry was delicious but oh so sweet and rich! I’m grateful to our server, who told us that we should share one instead of having one each, because of the hefty overload of sugar.

So there you have it — and now I’m back home, working hard in my garden to get everything organized for peak spring bloom time, which is upon us. What fragrant adventures have you enjoyed recently?

Perfume Chat Room, March 1

Perfume Chat Room, March 1

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, March 1 — rabbit rabbit! We are on our way to Paris — thank you to all who sent suggestions for perfume tourism and restaurants. So far my list (which combines well with regular sightseeing) includes Serge Lutens and Parfums de Rosine at Palais Royal, Dior, Hermès and Caron’s flagship stores, Fragonard’s museum, maybe Jovoy Paris (I love their London store).

Since I met up with my husband in Barcelona, I’ve taken advantage of the excellent duty-free store to spritz a couple of nice scents: Hermès Un Jardin Sur le Toit, and Chanel’s Paris-Paris. I’m enjoying them both! I have with me travel sprays of Dior’s New Look 1947 and La Colle Noire, and Guerlain’s Chant d’Aromes. All in on French perfumes! I’m enjoying the roses in Paris-Paris.

These were some of my roses that were still blooming in December:

I’ll be excited when they and all the new ones start blooming again. Do you have any fragrance-related plans for this weekend? Do share!

Perfume Chat Room, February 23

Perfume Chat Room, February 23

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, February 23, and I am late! It has been a bit crazy for the past week, culminating in my son spraining his knee yesterday and spending almost 4 hours in the emergency room. Thankfully, it isn’t dislocated, as he first feared. These are the times when we’re so glad he goes to university in the same city where we live, which makes it very simple to take him medication, supplies, snacks. etc.

I’m getting ready for our upcoming trip to Paris — thank you to all who sent suggestions for perfume tourism! Now, who can recommend some restaurants?

Right now is also the perfect time to plant and prune roses, so I’ve been doing some of that too. I’m very pleased that I succeeded in moving a big climbing Eden rose from a large pot to a sunny spot in the ground where I hope it will flourish. It has the most divine flowers of pink and white.

I know March will be chilly and not very spring-like in Paris, but I hope to find some blooms to enjoy. Palais Royal is on my list to visit, and apparently it has many pink magnolias, one of my favorite trees, that could be blooming in March. They are also very fragrant. I’ve never found a perfume that captures their particular scent. If you know of any, please share!

What are your plans, fragrant or not, for this weekend?

Perfume Chat Room, February 9

Perfume Chat Room, February 9

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, February 9, and Valentine’s Day is next week! Happy Valentine’s Day in advance! Do you have any fragrant gifts in mind, for yourself or anyone else? I am saving up all my fragrance wishes for an upcoming trip to Paris — all suggestions of perfume sites to visit are welcome, especially places that don’t have branches in the US. Palais Royal is on the list for sure, for Lutens and Rosine; probably also Jovoy Paris, since I’ve loved their store in London.

Most of my fragrance interest right now is in roses — real rose bushes, that is. I have some on order that should come in March; and I’ve bought some bare root roses of varieties that are highly fragrant and have the old-fashioned blooms I love, when I found them at a ridiculously low price at a big-box store. So those have kept me busy. My spring bulbs are starting to come up now, and most of those are very fragrant also — narcissus, hyacinths, starflowers. I’m delighted to see that my lavender plants seem to have survived the temperatures in the teens we had a few weeks ago.

Please share any fragrant plans you have for Valentine’s Day, and do suggest any favorite spots in Paris, perfume-related or otherwise! We’ll be there for a week, which offers plenty of time for tourism.

Perfume Chat Room, February 2

Perfume Chat Room, February 2

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, February 2, and it is Groundhog Day here in the US. Apparently, groundhog “Punxsutawney Phil” did not see his shadow this morning, which is supposed to predict an early spring. Unfortunately, Phil and his predecessors have been right less than 40% of the time over decades, but I’m choosing to believe. I’m ready to start pruning roses for spring and summer blooms! I’ll be uncovering the rest of my plants this weekend, having already removed the frost covers from many in the past week. And yes, I’ve checked the actual weather forecast; we may get down to 32 degrees Fahrenheit next week, but that seems to be the worst of it.

I try to grow mostly fragrant plants in my garden when I have the option. Most of my roses are varieties that have been bred for good fragrance. I also have some beautiful lavender (mostly “Phenomenal”, which was the only kind that survived the hard freeze we had in December 2022). Sage, basil, thyme, oregano are fragrant, of course. A new favorite geranium, which I saved by moving indoors as well as taking cuttings, is “Attar of Roses” and yes, when you press its leaves, it smells exactly like a rose! Then we have gardenias, hardy jasmine, evergreen clematis, magnolia trees. Right now, the most fragrant plant in my garden is mahonia, whose yellow flowers smell like a mix of gardenia and lily of the valley. I don’t recall ever seeing mahonias until we moved to the Southeast and bought an old house with an old garden that had some, and now it’s a favorite plant, ungainly as it may look. Its scent reminds me of Natalie, a gardenia-centric fragrance created in memory of the late actress Natalie Wood.

Leatherleaf mahonia shrub with yellow blooms
Mahonia in bloom, winter; image from UT Gardens.

Do you garden? If yes, do you deliberately seek out fragrant plants? Or do you have a favorite fragrance that evokes a particular plant, floral or not?