The Guerlain Advent sample today is Rose Barbare, created by Francis Kurkdjian and launched in 2005. I think it was one of three original fragrances in the “L’Art et la Matière” collection. It is a gorgeous rose, if you don’t mind aldehydes in the opening. I get along well with aldehydes, one of my favorite fragrances is Chanel No. 22, which is loaded with them, so that’s not an issue for me. Aldehydes seem to be the main focus of any critical comments on Fragrantica. The full list of notes, according to Fragrantica, is: top notes of rose and aldehydes; middle notes of rose and fenugreek; base notes of honey, patchouli, and woody notes.
At the start, I could have sworn I smelled something lemony, but it came and went so quickly, I couldn’t tell. The rose leaps forward, lifted airborne by aldehydes. These aren’t your mother’s aldehydes, to my nose they smell fresher and more vibrant than more old-fashioned aldehydic fragrances. And the rose is specifically said to be “Ottoman rose”, which I assume is at least one actual ingredient. That may have inspired the name that means “barbaric rose”, but that seems rude given the sophistication of the Ottoman Empire.
The fenugreek in the middle stage lends a certain dustiness to the rose, which is still going strong. I find this an appealing combination, as the rose still smells great and dominates. It is hard to say when the base notes emerge, because they do so very subtly with sweetness from a honey accord, earthiness from patchouli, and woody notes. I don’t know why this fragrance is described as a chypre floral, without the classic chypre structure and accords. Nevertheless, Rose Barbare smells wonderful. It is by no means a soliflore, but the rose clearly takes center stage.
If you’ve tried or owned Rose Barbare, please jump in via the comments!