Parfums Dusita

Perfume Chat Room, May 2
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Perfume Chat Room, May 2

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, May 2, and yesterday was May Day in many countries. In France, a May Day tradition is to give bouquets of maguey, or lily of the valley, to loved ones and friends. Apparently this was a tradition faithfully honored by M. Christian Dior, whose favorite flower was the muguet. This inspired, in turn, his work with Edmond Roudnitska to create the legendary Dior fragrance Diorissimo. As regular readers here know, muguet is one of my favorite scents and the flowers are one of my favorite flowers. In past years, I’ve done daily posts in May for a blogging “May Muguet Marathon”, which has been great fun!

Today I’m wearing my newest muguet fragrance, Cavatina by Parfums Dusita. I really love it, especially at this time of year when the weather shifts between late spring and early summer.

Lilies of the valley, green moss, and ferns in woodland garden
Lilies of the valley in woodland garden; image from Pinterest

Did you do anything special to celebrate May Day? Do you have any new-to-you favorite muguet or other spring fragrances?

Perfume Chat Room, April 12
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Perfume Chat Room, April 12

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Saturday, April 12, and I have another new fragrance by Parfums Dusita! The latest is Cavatina, a beautiful tribute to vintage muguet fragrances like Diorissimo, Muguet des Bois, and others. Listed notes include: top notes of bergamot, litsea cubeba, petit grain; heart notes of lily of the valley, tea rose, jasmine; base notes of ambrette seed, Siamese woods, vanilla. Additional notes mentioned on the website, presumably used to create the lily of the valley accord, include tuberose, ylang-ylang, heliotrope, and aldehydes.

Coty "When You're in Love" ad for Muguet des Bois fragrance, by Eric
Coty “When You’re in Love” ad for Muguet des Bois
Muguet du Bonheur ad by Caron
Close up of lily of the valley flowers
Lily of the valley; image from http://www.pixabay.com

As longtime readers here know, I adore lily of the valley flowers and fragrances, and in past years I’ve amused myself by writing a “May Muguet Marathon” series of daily posts during the month of May. (In other years, I’ve done a “Roses de Mai” Marathon).

I was curious about the litsea cubeba listed, and it turns out that it is an evergreen tree or shrub native to China. According to Eden Botanicals, its essential oil has “an intense, clean, fresh, sweet-green, lemon-like aroma with light woody-floral undertones.” Seems like a perfect ingredient to create a Muguet fragrance, since lilies of the valley share some of those fragrant traits.

Lily of the valley fragrances list on Fragrantica
Photo: http://www.fragrantica.com

Cavatina is a lovely muguet. It is light, floral, elegant. The bergamot gives it a little zing at the start, and it must be the litsea that adds the lemony note that I do smell in real lilies of the valley. The muguet accord is very realistic, even without the molecules that made Diorissimo a legend but are now banned or can only be used in tiny quantities.

I won’t be doing a May Marathon this year, as I’ll be traveling (including a trip to the RHS Chelsea Flower Show! If I did another marathon series later this summer or fall, what would interest you most?

Happy Passover to all who celebrate it!

Singers with giant flower hats and flowered dresses at RHS Chelsea Flower Show.
RHS Chelsea Flower Show, May 2019.
Perfume Chat Room, March 28
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Perfume Chat Room, March 28

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, March 28, and last Friday was International Fragrance Day, which I totally missed! OTOH, I did visit the niche fragrance boutique that opened a few years ago in a nearby suburb, Indiehouse. I had first visited its pop-up store before it had its fixed location, and I’ve been to its intown location, which isn’t far from my house, but I hadn’t yet visited its main store. I’m delighted to say that it was lovely, with many interesting rinds, and the staff could not have been nicer.

Indiehouse fragrance boutique

I bought a discovery set I’ve been eyeing for a while, from the brand Grandiflora. If I can’t get to Australia this year, I’ll wear Australian fragrances!

Indiehouse fragrance boutique

The two sales associates were very warm and welcoming, and managed that great balance of offering help but then letting me wander around sniffing until I had a specific question. They were both knowledgeable and enthusiastic, and we had a great chat about Christian Dior, his sister Catherine, and the original Miss Dior.

I haven’t p,urged into my new discovery set yet because I’ve been enjoying the Rosarine by Parfums Dusita that I was “ given” in February. I’m using quotation marks because as usual, I bought it for myself then handed it over to my patient, nice husband to give me for Valentine’s Day! He’s a very good sport. Next up: Cavatina, for Mother’s Day, lol. The lilies of the valley I grow here (barely, they don’t seem to like the heat here) are already in full bloom and very fragrant.

Spring is in full swing now, and I’ve been very busy caring for all the roses and other plants I put in last spring and summer. All seem to have made it just fine through our erratic frosts, and I’m tackling the usual bugs and diseases early and preventatively.

Have you discovered any new stores, fragrances, or plants recently?

Indiehouse fragrance boutique
Perfume Chat Room, February 7
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Perfume Chat Room, February 7

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, February 7, and the gardening frenzy continues! I’ve moved a few of my roses that were in large pots, bought a couple of new (fragrant) roses, and have been pruning like a madwoman. Luckily the weather has been fine, and it’s a great distraction from the news to be outside digging and pruning.

Next Friday is, of course, Valentine’s Day. Having bought myself Rosarine, I graciously offered it to my husband to give me for Valentine’s Day instead of a rose bouquet, lol. I may have enough new rose fragrances soon to do another “Roses de Mai Marathon“. If not, I can fill in with posts about my new actual rose plants.

Are you hoping/expecting to get any fragrances or fragrant items for Valentine’s Day?

Perfume Chat Room, June 21
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Perfume Chat Room, June 21

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, June 21, and it is HOT where I live! 93 degrees with enough humidity to make it feel like 94. Interestingly, the heat revealed a facet of Pelagos that I hadn’t expected. I had applied very small spritzes, one to my neck and each of my wrists, three in all, so very little. I should have remembered that Pelagos comes in extrait strength! Because when I left my physical therapy appointment around 11, it was a bit too much. And it also “read” to my nose as more masculine, whereas when I first tried it, I felt it was truly unisex. I can’t even explain why my perception changed or what note/accord changed it, but here we are.

The good news is that I’ve completely recovered from COVID and my sense of smell is intact. Only my sense of taste was temporarily affected by Paxlovid, and it returned to normal by the evening of the day when I took my last dose. That’s a relief! The bad news is that Japanese beetles have arrived in my garden, seeking out my scrumptious roses, their favorite treat. I have gone to war. In researching the best methods that won’t harm beneficial insects or pollinators, I learned something new — Japanese beetles apparently have some kind of sense of smell and they release a pheromone when they find a food source, which attracts all their fellow Japanese beetles! Ugh.

Are you going through a heat wave? My sympathy if you are. Happy Summer Solstice too!

Perfume Chat Room, June 14
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Perfume Chat Room, June 14

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, June 14, and I took my last dose of Paxlovid this morning — hurray! As some of you know, I came down with COVID last weekend. As it turned out, my husband had it first and probably caught it on the plane trip home from France, then both my daughters and I came down with it. I was able to start Paxlovid on Sunday evening, and I’m grateful to have had it although it did leave a bad metallic taste in my mouth all week. Luckily, it doesn’t seem to have affected my nose, and I’m told the bad taste stops by the day after one’s last dose.

Meanwhile, I received a free sample of Parfums Dusita’s newest fragrance, Pelagos, in the mail and I like it very much! The name means “sea”, but this is not an aquatic fragrance. Per Fragrantica, the notes are: top notes: Cypress, Oakmoss, Bergamot, Pine, Litsea Cubeba, Clary Sage and Orange; middle notes: Orris, Thyme, Tonka Bean and Jasmine; base notes: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Amyris, Ambrette, Benzoin and Incense. It is more of an aromatic fragrance than anything else, with a strong hint of chypre. Truly unisex, it would smell great on anyone. It comes in extrait strength, which is also very appealing. I’ll have to spend more time with it to share any deeper thoughts, but it’s a winner so far!

Do you have any favorite beach or ocean scents?

The northern coast of Brittany
Perfume Chat Room, March 31
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Perfume Chat Room, March 31

Welcome to the Friday Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, March 31 — is your March “going out like a lion”? I think our weather lion has already left the building, though I risk jinxing us by saying so. We had low temps of 40 degrees F earlier this week, and tomorrow it’s supposed to approach 80 degrees. My plants are so confused. I still have daffodils coming up, but my lilies of the valley and roses are also now starting to bloom. One David Austin rose in particular is so fragrant as well as beautiful! It’s called “Fighting Temeraire”, after a famous painting, and it has a strong fruity rose fragrance that carries. This is one of the reasons I love David Austin’s English Rose hybrids — not only are they beautiful, in many colors, but they were bred and selected to be highly fragrant.

David Austin English Rose "Fighting Temeraire"; image from www.gardentags.com
David Austin English Rose “Fighting Temeraire”; image from http://www.gardentags.com

Yes, this rose’s blossoms really are that big! Speaking of fragrance and spring, Portia and I will resume our collaboration on Monday, now that we’ve both returned home from travels, with “Notes On Notes” (first Monday of each month) and “Counterpoint” (third Monday of each month). I’ll give you a hint: the note we’ve chosen for April appears in many green fragrances. Please join us!

I just got in the mail a sample of Parfums Dusita’s new fragrance; she’s running another contest to name it, on the Eau My Soul Facebook page. Are any of you taking part? I haven’t even sniffed it yet, but I’m looking forward to it.

Scented Advent, December 10
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Scented Advent, December 10

Today’s independent perfumer sample is Splendiris, by Parfums Dusita. What an intriguing scent! There was something in the opening that I didn’t like, though I did like the overall effect. I truly can’t figure out what it was that annoyed me — perhaps the carrot seeds listed as a note, as it was an almost woody note that bothered me. Luckily, the combination of violet and orris appears quite soon, and it’s a beautiful friendship. At this heart stage, those two accords dominate, but gently, like a cool breeze wafting over a flower bed.

The notes are listed by Fragrantica as follows: Top notes are Violet Leaves, Carrot Seeds, Fig Leaf, Green Mandarin, Italian Orange and Calabrian bergamot; middle notes are Violet, Orris, Grasse Rose and Jasmine Sambac; base notes are Vanilla, Ambergris, Haitian Vetiver and Cedar. The overall impression I get from Splendiris is “cool”, but it is the cool of a bright spring day, lightly warmed by sunshine. There is just enough rose and jasmine in this phase to make it more multi-layered and textured, especially the jasmine, but I don’t think anyone smelling it for the first time would think of it, even at this stage, as a rose or jasmine fragrance.

I’ve been trying more Dusita fragrances lately; I’ve been intrigued by the brand since it has a contest to name what became Splendiris.

Artwork for Parfum Dusita's naming competition
Naming competition, Parfums Dusita

To my nose, Splendiris smells like the artwork above: shades of transparent purple and blue, illuminated by touches of gold, yellow and brown. The yellow, gold, and brown tints come from the base notes, such as vanilla, vetiver, and ambergris. There are some people who smell almost everything “in color”, in the phenomenon called synesthesia. I am not one of them, but Splendiris does lend painterly effects to the overall impressions, more than I usually perceive.

Have you had any experiences with synesthesia, or do you strongly associate any fragrances with a particular color?

Bottle of Parfums Dusita's Splendiris eau de parfum with blue flowers
Splendiris eau de parfum; image from Parfums Dusita
Perfume Chat Room, April 16
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Perfume Chat Room, April 16

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, April 16, and spring flowers are slowly giving way to summer blossoms in my garden. I have several roses that have started to bloom; they are almost all very fragrant, as most of the ones I grow are David Austin English Roses, which he hybridized over decades to regain the strong scent and old-fashioned form of the Old Roses. In the 20th century, many hybridizers bred for color and shape, which gave us so many beautiful, classic hybrid tea roses like Chrysler, John F. Kennedy, Peace, etc., but they weren’t as fragrant as their forebears. Other hybridizers bred roses for large-scale landscaping, like the Knockout Roses, but they are barely fragrant at all. So Mr. Austin’s goal was to take some of the best qualities of 20th century roses, like disease resistance, innovative colors, and repeat blooming periods, and marry them to the shapes and scents of old classics like the “Old Roses”.

This week, I was delighted to get in the mail my long-awaited sample of a new, soon-to-be-released perfume from Parfums Dusita, which is the subject currently of a naming contest! Perfumer and brand founder Pissara Umavijani invited members of the Eau My Soul group on Facebook to suggest perfume notes we’d like to see combined, then she chose from among those and created a fragrance. Now members who took part in suggesting the notes have been sent a generous sample of the unnamed fragrance and we get to submit up to three suggestions for names! The winner will get a large bottle of the fragrance.

I just love this project. Ms. Umavijani has done something like it before in 2019, when she launched what became Splendiris, a name I love and a very beautiful fragrance. I think that fragrance was the subject of a similar contest for readers of Fragrantica, if I recall correctly.

This new scent has notes of: petit grain, Rose Damascena, tuberose absolute, white freesia, Jasmine Grandiflora, oak wood, oakmoss absolute, sandalwood, vanilla absolute, and patchouli. I haven’t tried it yet as I wanted to wait until the weekend when I could focus more on it and less on work. Don’t those notes sound gorgeous, especially if (like me) you like florals?

P.S. WordPress has just informed me that this is my 500th post on Serenity Now: Scents & Sensibilities! Wow, that feels like a lot, but it has been so much fun and still is. Thanks for joining me on this blogging journey!