Perfume Chat Room, June 27

Perfume Chat Room, June 27

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, June 27, and we are back from Copenhagen! While there, I discovered a small niche perfumery called Crime Passional, which had a very nice selection of niche perfumes and a very friendly staff.

I hadn’t really been searching for perfumes, but came across Crime Passionel while wandering through the area of the city between the Christiansborg Palace and the University of Copenhagen, so of course I dropped in. The store was pretty small but certainly made the most of its space!

We had the most wonderful time in Copenhagen, and also wonderful weather! The high temperatures were mostly in the 60s (Fahrenheit), topping out at 70, and the days were sunny and clear, with very little humidity. We saw the major sights, including a day trip by train to Helsingør and Kronborg, and had fun experiences like seeing the changing of the guard, eating seafood in Nyhavn, visiting the National Museum, and watching the three-masted training ship return to port after a months-long voyage.

We spent an afternoon and evening at Tivoli Gardens, watched a traditional pantomime, and saw the start of a pop concert packed with local teenagers who were all having a jolly time. In general, the people we met all week were nice, friendly, and cheerful. All spoke excellent English, though we made the effort to master a few words of Danish, especially “thank you.”

We walked almost everywhere and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. I’m looking forward to another visit to see more of Scandinavia! Now we’re staying put through the rest of the summer, and I hope to tackle numerous projects, including sorting through and reorganizing my fragrances. Any helpful tips on that?

Perfume Chat Room, May 16

Perfume Chat Room, May 16

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, May 16, and I did a perfume-making workshop in London this week with Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays! It was held in her studio in Hammersmith, in a very appealing neighborhood.

Sarah McCartney, 4160 Tuesdays

It was so much fun. Sarah focused the workshop on sustainability in perfumery and did an excellent job explaining to the group how each ingredient she had chosen for the workshop relates to that theme. As a lover of rose scents, my favorite was the rose absolute derived from upcycled rose petals. As a gardener, my favorite was the vetiver, which was harvested via a different method that leaves half the plant and, importantly, its whole root system to prevent erosion.

Tester strips for the substances we used

Sarah also did an outstanding job explaining how perfumery is a mix of math and chemistry, as she taught us to combine different substances in different ratios on filter paper, which we would then try to translate into the proportions we would use in our final creations.

The book you see on the left is the full weeklong program for London Craft Week, which has been this week. Sarah’s workshop was part of that.

Some of our workshop materials

I used Sarah’s base of “Soft Musks” for my own creation. I can’t describe it any better than she can, so here’s the info.

Made from readily biodegradable materials. These molecules enhance the aromas of natural materials, and extend a fragrance’s longevity, to make a more wearable longer lasting fragrance. They take the place of components lost during the process of extracting natural materials. Historically animal materials, like musk, ambergris and civet, were used for these effects.

To that base, I added compounds based on rose, lily, orange, raspberry.

My own perfume!
Part of Sarah’s collection of perfumes

Sarah also has an important collection of perfumes, many of which she used in writing her book with Samantha Scriven, “The Perfume Companion”, which I highly recommend if you can get a copy (I think it’s still available on Kindle if you can’t find a hard copy).

Sarah McCartney

I had a fabulous time and I learned so much! Sustainability is important, and it’s wonderful to know of the progress in this area.

Do you have any thoughts or insights about sustainability in perfumery?

Perfume Chat Room, September 27

Perfume Chat Room, September 27

Welcome to the weekly Perfume Chat Room, perfumistas! I envision this chat room as a weekly drop-in spot online, where readers may ask questions, suggest fragrances, tell others their SOTD, comment on new releases or old favorites, and respond to each other. The perennial theme is fragrance, but we can interpret that broadly. This is meant to be a kind space, so please try not to give or take offense, and let’s all agree to disagree when opinions differ. In fragrance as in life, your mileage may vary! YMMV.

Today is Friday, September 27, and we have just had what was left of Hurricane Helene pass through our area. We were lucky: lots of rain, and flooding in lower areas especially near creeks and rivers, but our own street didn’t flood or lose power. Whew! We were ready, though. Fully stocked up with food, water, batteries, etc. Hybrid car fully charged. We’re still staying inside, though, as the power company crews are out and there are trees down across some roads.

I was sad to read earlier today that some protesters threw soup (again) on Van Gogh’s “Sunflowers” paintings that I just saw at the National Gallery last week. The two who had done that in 2022 were sentenced earlier in the day to prison time. Thankfully, the paintings were protected then and now by glass.

Sunflowers, by Van Gogh, at The National Gallery

In honor of “Sunflowers” and to share some of my recent trip to London, let me tell you about one of my purchases at Bloom Perfumery. I love Bloom! The staff there are always very friendly, helpful, and knowledgeable, and the store carries many unique and interesting brands. One of those brands is Brocard, a revival of an old Russian fragrance house:

“As a brand, Brocard dates all the way back to 1864 when Henri Brocard opened up his first luxury soap shop in Moscow, the Russian Empire. In the years that followed his business flourished and blossomed and come the end of the 19th century Brocard had become the largest soap maker in Europe. It was nationalised in 1917 and became  the legendary Soviet beauty giant Novaya Zarya. For a century Brocard’s name remained history untill a new company started in 1994 as the modern Brocard.”

I bought two Brocard fragrances at Bloom on this trip: Color Feeling Yellow and Color Feeling Purple. Bloom has stopped carrying Brocard fragrances, but they had a few of these left in stock and took 50% off their already very low prices, so in perfume math, they were practically free! Launched in 2020, Color Feeling Yellow is meant to be a floral woody musk. It has notes of lemon, musk, narcissus, orange blossom, freesia, lily, jasmine, amber, vanilla, tonka, and cedar.

To my nose, it starts off with a strong lemon tempered by musk, from which white floral notes slowly emerge. Quite a few Fragrantica readers have said that it reminds them of Ex Nihilo’s Fleur Narcotique, a much more expensive fragrance. I don’t know Fleur Narcotique so can’t comment on that, but this is perfectly nice. When I first spritzed it, it reminded me a bit of the smell of dandelion flowers, yellow and polleny. The lemon opening is pretty dominant, so if you don’t like the smell of synthetic lemon, you probably won’t like Color Feeling Yellow. However, wait just a little while and the lemon steps back, though I smell it still humming in the background.

Of all the floral notes listed, the one that my nose most readily perceives is freesia, followed by orange blossom. Those both smell lemony to me in real life, so I’m not surprised. I also pick up a woody undertone, which I assume is meant to be cedar. I don’t smell any vanilla, tonka, or amber, although there is a pleasant, light warmth as the fragrance dries down. All in all, a very nice bargain beauty, especially for about 15 pounds!

Have you been contending with any challenging weather? Or have you found any new bargain beauties?

Perfume Tourism, Anyone?

Perfume Tourism, Anyone?

www.nytimes.com/2021/05/11/t-magazine/beauty-shops-fragrance-skincare.html

This article is making me yearn to start traveling again!

Entrance hall of Palazzo Mocenigo, perfume museum in Venice, Italy
Palazzo Mocenigo entrance hall; image from http://www.veneziaautentica.com
Small Business Saturday 2020: Perfumology in Philadelphia +#Shopsmall Draw — ÇaFleureBon Perfume Blog

Small Business Saturday 2020: Perfumology in Philadelphia +#Shopsmall Draw — ÇaFleureBon Perfume Blog

Supporting small businesses at our small family shop feels right. I’m grateful to do so during these difficult times.-Nir Guy of Perfumology The post Small Business Saturday 2020: Perfumology in Philadelphia +#Shopsmall Draw appeared first on ÇaFleureBon Perfume Blog.

Small Business Saturday 2020: Perfumology in Philadelphia +#Shopsmall Draw — ÇaFleureBon Perfume Blog

As part of what has become “Black Friday” weekend, today we have “Small Business Saturday”, and the blog CaFleureBon is highlighting a well-regarded niche perfumery based in Philadelphia, Perfumology. It is a small, family-owned business owned and run by Nir Guy. Like many small businesses in retail, it has had its challenges in 2020, especially as it had focused on in-person service and events, which are currently not feasible (though they’ve taken some events online, apparently). I placed a small order today (a discovery set) to show support. I appreciate the role that niche perfumeries play in discovering and supporting independent perfumers.

Do you have a favorite brick-and-mortar perfumery?

Featured image from http://www.perfumology.com.

Fragrance Friday: Perfume Tourism

Fragrance Friday: Perfume Tourism

My family and I will be traveling to Devon, Cornwall, Belfast and Dublin this summer! I am excited at the possibility of visiting at least one perfume-related site during our trip, and I’ve identified a beautiful perfumery in Dublin: Parfumarija, which is close to where we will be staying. Doesn’t this look lovely?

Storefront of perfumery Parfumarija in Dublin, Ireland.

Parfumarija in Dublin; image from http://www.parfumarija.com

Any other suggestions for fragrance places to visit? They don’t all have to be retail stores!