My Mother’s Last Perfume

My Mother’s Last Perfume

My mother is slowly dying. It is sad but acceptable, given that she is in her mid-80s and suffered a major stroke more than two years ago. She has been able to stay in her own home, cared for by a live-in aide who has become a much-appreciated member of the family “team.” Now my mother also gets hospice care in her home and she is bedridden. She is emaciated, as she only drinks protein shakes and water. Most of her medications have been discontinued, because trying to swallow pills came to cause her so much distress. She would be mortified to know her present condition, as she was always a proud woman who valued autonomy above almost anything else. She had always hoped that her unhealthy heart would fell her instantly, without any fuss, after she was no longer able to enjoy what she called her “adventures.” My mother loved to travel to exotic places, with or without my father (who died several years ago).

In her younger days, my mother also loved glamour, and parties, and dressing up. She had an eye for fashion and was a striking woman herself: tall, with white Irish skin and startling blue eyes under dark eyebrows and hair that was such a dark brown it looked black. An early memory of mine is of sitting on my parents’ bed, watching her do her hair and make up at a vanity, or what we called her “dressing table.” It was a ritual; and part of that ritual was the finishing flourish of Chanel No. 5.

Chanel No. 5 perfume ad

My parents’ marriage was not always a happy one, though it lasted more than 50 years and only ended with my father’s death when he was almost 90. My mother was never cut out to be a suburban housewife, yet the part of her that craved security sought out that life and chose to stay in it. She was, indeed, very like the creation of Rudyard Kipling to which she frequently compared herself: The Cat that Walked by Himself, or as she said, “the Cat that walked alone.” She sought out creature comfort and made for herself (and us) a pleasing home, but there was always part of her that withheld itself. As a child, I often tried to make my mother feel happier, though I now realize that much of her unhappiness was due to exaggerated expectations on her part of how her life should have unfolded.

The Cat that Walked by Himself, from the Just-So Stories, text and illustration by Rudyard Kipling

The Cat that Walked by Himself, by Rudyard Kipling

One way I tried to make her happy was to save my small allowance to offer her gifts: special gifts, the kind I thought my father should give her more often. More than once, that gift was some form of Chanel No. 5. I remember offering Chanel talcum powder; and once, the smallest size of spray cologne, as that was all I could afford. She was, in fact, delighted by these offerings and made a point of using them when I was around to see that she loved and appreciated them. My mother was in many ways a self-centered woman but she loved us as much as she was able to, given her own loveless childhood.

So now, as she lies slowly dying — a process that could sadly take many more weeks or even months — I occasionally “borrow” a spritz from her last spray bottle of Chanel No. 5 eau de toilette. I think I may have given it to her some time in the last decade; I just don’t remember. But I do remember the fragrance, and her bottle pre-dates the 2013 reformulation. It hasn’t been carefully preserved — it sat out on a shelf in her sunny bathroom for years. So the top notes are a little “off”, but it quickly settles onto one’s skin with powdery, warm, heady florals. Smelling it, I can recall the vibrant, restless, beautiful woman my mother once was. It really is a lovely scent, though I would never choose to wear it regularly as my own perfume, given its long association with my mother.

Sadly, she no longer enjoys it. On one of my visits during this latest phase of her long decline, I thought she might like to smell it again, as she was always hyper-alert to smells, so I applied a bit to my own wrist and held it close so she could smell it. She wrinkled her nose and said to the room, “What is that awful smell?”. So I haven’t offered it again; instead, I bring her pots of live hyacinths, which she has long loved and still enjoys. My father, an avid amateur gardener, used to please her by potting up dozens of hyacinth bulbs for forcing indoors every winter, when their perfume would fill entire rooms.

My mother slips in and out of awareness these days, and I’m not always sure she knows I am there, but when I brought her the latest hyacinths and held the pot of blossoms close to her, she inhaled their fragrance, smiled and said, “Lovely!”. It still matters to me to try to make my mother happy, even at this indeterminate, shadowy end.

Fragrance Friday: Art & Olfaction Awards Finalists

Today at 1pm, Central European time, members of the Art and Olfaction Awards judging panel joined founder Saskia Wilson-Brown to announce the finalists of the third annual awards. Luca Turin gave a small talk about the meaning of awards, in general Mark Behnke introduced the judging methods, and the judges Antonio Gardoni introduced the artisan […]

via Announcing the finalists — The Art and Olfaction Awards

Fragrance Friday: Natalie Wood

Fragrance Friday: Natalie Wood

The New York Times recently published an intriguing article about the actress Natalie Wood’s daughter, Natasha Gregson Warner, her memories of her mother who died in a tragic accident when she was eleven, and the perfume she has designed: A Mother’s Death, A Daughter’s Life.

Scent matters to Ms. Gregson Wagner, 45. It’s an emotional trigger and conjurer of memory. In every home that she has lived in as an adult, she says she has planted a gardenia bush, because the smell of gardenias reminds her of her mother. “The smell is what I remember, the comfort of the smell,” she said as she sat on a banquette in her kitchen, wearing jeans and a flowered, billowy blouse. “I knew when she was home because I would smell her perfume. She would waft through the house.”

Ms. Gregson Warner will release a gardenia-based fragrance in honor of her mother, called Natalie. It is a modern take on the original Jungle Gardenia, which was Natalie Wood’s favorite perfume and was worn by a number of Hollywood stars (not the Coty version under the same name, which apparently was a completely different scent).

In one moving part of the article, Ms. Gregson Warner describes her emotions after she and her little sister were told that their mother had died:

As any daughter would be, she was devastated and scared. “Her bed and her sheets smelled like her,” said Ms. Gregson Wagner, who is petite at 5-foot-2 and with almond-shaped brown eyes, bears more than a passing resemblance to her mother. “I slept there for a lot of nights. Especially with one of her pillows, it just smelled like her in the days after.”

The power of fragrance. I wish this lovely lady the best of luck with her new perfume.

Natasha Gregson Warner, Natalie Wood's daughter

Natasha Gregson Warner. Photo: Elizabeth Weinberg for The New York Times

National Fragrance Day Today

National Fragrance Day Today

English perfumistas are celebrating “National Fragrance Day” today, so why not join in on this side of the pond? What to wear to mark the occasion? I’m thinking of Jean-Claude Ellena’s Un Jardin Sur le Nil, as it was reading about that fragrance’s creation in Chandler Burr’s book “The Perfect Scent” that started me down the path of obsessing over perfume.

Source: National Fragrance Day Today

The Perfect Scent, Chandler Burr's book about the perfume industry and the creation of Jean-Claude Ellena's Hermes fragrance Un Jardin Sur le Nil

The Perfect Scent, http://www.chandlerburr.com

Share a #Smellfie for National Fragrance Day

National Fragrance Day is Monday March 21! Sounds like fun, though I’m not sure I’m up for a “smellfie.” And sadly, The Perfume Society only ships within the UK so I doubt I’ll sign up for their subscription although it comes with other benefits.

Fragrance Friday: Decisions, decisions

Fragrance Friday: Decisions, decisions

Spring has sprung, although we haven’t yet reached the vernal equinox. My garden is full of blossoming yellow and white daffodils, pink azaleas, blue starflowers, lavender redbuds, white dogwoods … a true Easter symphony of colors. A change of seasons warrants a change of fragrances! But which ones? I’ve enjoyed wearing Penhaligon’s Ostara quite often in the rotation, with its gorgeous scent of daffodils and beautiful packaging: Fragrance Friday: Ostara.

Ostara Box

It’s almost time to  plunge headlong back into my favorite lily of the valley/muguet perfumes (Fragrance Friday: The Scent of Water) but not just yet, although my first little LOTV bloom showed up this week outside. I even have a new one I’m excited to try: L.I.L.Y. by Stella McCartney.

It’s much too early for the rose perfumes I also love. Maybe something with cherry blossom? It is, after all, nearing cherry blossom time especially here in the South. I don’t happen to own anything with cherry blossom except a drugstore body spray, so if any of you have any suggestions, I am all ears! Or nose.

Happy spring!

 

Fragrance Friday: Charleston Girl

Fragrance Friday: Charleston Girl

We have been visiting Charleston and the Isle of Palms recently, soaking up some sea and sunshine before the final stretch of the school year. Part of our mission was to share this beautiful part of the world with old friends of ours who have recently moved back to the United States after almost three decades of living in Paris. I have long regarded Charleston as the most beautiful, most European city in America, which, combined with its uniquely American history, makes it a favorite destination.

One aspect of introducing our friends to Charleston’s charms was taking them to visit Middleton Place, a former rice plantation on the banks of the Ashley River that dates back to the 17th century. Only one wing of the former mansion remains, but the outbuildings, gardens and rivermarsh views are still fascinating. We walked through hundreds of camellias in bloom, watched birds, admired centuries-old live oaks draped in Spanish moss. AND I found a locally made perfume in the gift shop whose proceeds support Middleton Place: Charleston Girl. Continue reading

Fragrance Friday: A Life in Scent

Fragrance Friday: A Life in Scent

Fashion news outlets have been trumpeting the foray of a longtime fashionista and industry insider, former Vogue Creative Director Grace Coddington, into the world of self-named perfumes. Comme des Garcons will launch Grace by Grace Coddington this April. Okay, so far, so good, ho hum. Here’s what I found more interesting: this article by Vogue, in which Ms. Coddington traces her favorite scents throughout her long career in fashion, starting in the late 1950s when she was a young model in London.

Grace Coddington Vogue 1962

Grace Coddington. Vogue UK, September 1962

Ms. Coddington has always had a striking, different look: more Pre-Raphaelite Sisterhood than Twiggy in my view.

Grace Coddington telegraph

Grace Coddington; photo from fashion.telegraph.co.uk

Her new perfume sounds lovely but pretty conventional: “peach blossom, white musk, and amber crystal–spiked Moroccan rose absolute”, according to Vogue. It will be interesting to see if the actual fragrance is more individual and quirky than that description, as Grace Coddington’s own style, personal and editorial, has long been both of those.

Featured photo: Steven Klein, for Vogue January 2013; editor Grace Coddington.

Fragrance Friday: A Perfume Mystery

An intriguing news item from Australia: Photo and perfume found hidden in doomed Gold Coast house.  It seems that a bottle of eau de toilette, titled “Charlotte”, was found with a photograph of a young couple in a wall cavity, in a house slated for demolition.

perfume mystery

The owner of the house posted the above picture on Facebook, looking for information on who the young people might be, and what is the story behind this discovery.

Another mystery: what is this perfume? I haven’t been able to find it in a cursory search on Fragrantica or Google — any ideas? I love the idea of someone doing this.  If you were to hide a photo with a perfume, what would the photo show and what would the perfume be?

Fragrance Friday: Ostara

Fragrance Friday: Ostara

It may be a bit early in the season to review Penhaligon’s Ostara, given that it is named after a goddess of spring and the vernal equinox festival celebrated by pagans. The vernal equinox, after all, happens in March, not February. But temperatures here today reached the 60s, and it was a beautiful sunny day, so Ostara feels right for the day.

Penhaligon’s is a venerable British perfume house that dates back to the mid-late 19th century; its founder was perfumer to Queen Victoria. It was acquired last year by Puig, a Spanish company based in Barcelona, one of my favorite cities. They are expanding the reach of Penhaligon’s and have even opened a store in the United States, in New York: At Penhaligon’s, Old World Meets Modernism. Ostara is a new fragrance, launched in 2015. The perfumer behind it is Bertrand Duchaufour, who was inspired by England’s wild daffodils to create a sunny fragrance bouquet of yellow flowers, green leaves, dew and scented flowers.

Bertrand Duchaufour daffodils

Bertrand Duchaufour at Kew Gardens; http://www.penhaligons.com.

The packaging is beautiful, with yellow cut-paper daffodils applied to the outer box. On the back is an excerpt from Wordsworth’s  famous poem “I Wandered Lonely As A Cloud:

Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze….
And then my heart with pleasure fills,
And dances with the daffodils.
Ostara Box

Photo: www.blogs.elle.com.hk

Ostara opens with bergamot, clementine, juniper, red berries CO2, mint, currant buds CO2, violet leaf absolute, green leaves and aldehydes. The mostly floral heart adds notes of daffodil, hyacinth, cyclamen, ylang-ylang, hawthorn and wisteria along with beeswax. Base notes include styrax resin, vanilla, benzoin, musk, amber and blond wood.

To me, the opening is bright but not fruity. There is more than a hint of greenness from the juniper, mint, violet leaf and green leaves, but also a creamy undertone that is really winning, maybe from the beeswax accord. I smell the daffodil note quickly, and an astringent note that I think must be the hawthorn. There is nothing dark about Ostara. However, it’s not sweet — just sunny. I don’t pick up the hyacinth note very strongly, nor is the daffodil accord as sweet as, say, paperwhite narcissus. The drydown is warm, creamy and light. Victoria at Bois de Jasmin describes it so well: “From the first minute on skin Ostara glows, rich in green, citrusy and leafy nuances but without suggesting the component parts. In other words, don’t expect to smell along the marketing pyramid and find bergamot and then juniper, mint, violet, etc. Like a flower from a magician’s wand, it unfolds as a big, dewy blossom.”

Why the name Ostara?  According to some, Ostara is a pagan festival marking the time when the sun passes over the celestial equator and the season’s change from winter to spring. It is named for a pagan goddess of spring or the dawn, Eostre, whose name appears in the Anglo-Saxon writings of the Venerable Bede — but only once. Some say that her name is the root of the word “Easter”, the Christian holy day of renewal, resurrection and rebirth.

Goddess in Grotto Real Alcazar Garden

Daffodils are my favorite flowers, followed closely by lilies-of-the-valley and roses. I’m so happy that a great perfumer and renowned perfume house teamed up to create a daffodil fragrance, especially one so pleasing.

Ostara

Illustration: Melissa Bailey for Penhaligon’s.