Fragrance Friday: Carner Barcelona

Fragrance Friday: Carner Barcelona

My lovely husband has returned from another business trip to Barcelona; and I am now the happy recipient of several samples of fragrance from the niche perfumery Carner Barcelona, as well as the “travel set” of its fragrances Tardes and Rima XI. I haven’t had a chance to try them yet, so this week’s “Fragrance Friday” will be about the perfume house instead.

Carner Barcelona was founded by Sara Carner in 2009. According to the company website, Continue reading

Fragrance Friday: Monsoons

Fragrance Friday: Monsoons

I just read the most interesting article about a village in India that creates an attar to capture the scent of rain and the seasonal monsoons: Making Perfume From the Rain.

Every storm blows in on a scent, or leaves one behind. The metallic zing that can fill the air before a summer thunderstorm is from ozone, a molecule formed from the interaction of electrical discharges—in this case from lightning—with oxygen molecules. Likewise, the familiar, musty odor that rises from streets and storm ponds during a deluge comes from a compound called geosmin. A byproduct of bacteria, geosmin is what gives beets their earthy flavor. Rain also picks up odors from the molecules it meets. So its essence can come off as differently as all the flowers on all the continents—rose-obvious, barely there like a carnation, fleeting as a whiff of orange blossom as your car speeds past the grove. It depends on the type of storm, the part of the world where it falls, and the subjective memory of the nose behind the sniff.

Fascinating! The author, Cynthia Barnett, goes on to describe how she flew to India on the eve of monsoon season for the express purpose of visiting the village in Uttar Pradesh where, for centuries, villagers have captured the scent of the rain in their part of the world. They call it mitti attar. She describes in great detail what materials they gather and how they process them according to traditional routines. And then, she samples the end product, “Earth’s perfume”: Continue reading

“The Smell of Loss”

“The Smell of Loss”

Normally I post about fragrance on or around Fridays, in my weekly “Fragrance Friday” blog post. But this weekend’s New York Times had such a stunning, beautiful op-ed piece, The Smell of Loss, that I just had to share it.

The first time it happens is a dark winter’s afternoon, not quite a year after her death. I’m at my desk working, and there it suddenly is: sharp, glassy-green, with that faint, musky undertone that catches at the back of your throat.

I recognize it instantly: the scent that hung in our hall every time she came to supper. The perfume that clung to her coat, her scarves, detectable sometimes for hours on my babies’ hair after she’d been carrying and kissing them.

That first time, it’s a shock. Her perfume is something I’ve long forgotten (in her final months, mostly bedridden, she was beyond all that). But here it is — absolute and definite and quite overpowering.

The author, Julie Myerson, is describing the signature fragrance of her beloved, deceased mother-in-law, which she starts smelling at unexpected moments, for minutes at a time, with no apparent source such as clothing. She consults experts:

I email Jay A. Gottfried, a neuroscientist who runs the Gottfried Laboratory at Northwestern University, which investigates the links between brain activity and sensory perception.

Professor Gottfried tells me that what I describe is known in his business as “phantosmia” or “phantom smells.” The sense of smell, he says, is our most ancient, primal sense and has “intimate and direct control over emotional and behavioral states.”

You really have to read the rest of this article, it is wonderful. Enjoy! Have you ever experienced this phenomenon?

Illustration: Aidan Koch, for The New York Times

Fragrance Friday: A Reclusive Perfumer

Fragrance Friday: A Reclusive Perfumer

This week’s Fragrance Friday is more about the perfumer than the perfume. I bought a coffret of Lollia eaux de parfums at Anthropologie, a limited edition “wardrobe” of three fragrances by Margot Elena, who is also the creator of TokyoMilk and other brands. I was curious to find out more about her, and found an intriguing interview she gave to Sephora: Character Study: Margot Elena. One of my favorite quotes from the article:

Fragrance is alive and the most intimate “accessory” we can select. It is never the same scent on any two people, and it is never the same exact fragrance from day to day based on the interaction with one’s body chemistry. Is there any art that is more intimate and beautiful than that?

The packaging of the set is lovely too, designed by RedGrackle (whose photo is featured).

I was also intrigued by the names of the eaux de parfums: I Can Still Smell the Rain, Velvet As Night, and Another Quiet Day. I haven’t tried them other than in the store, but will share my thoughts once I have. If you have tried them or other Lollia scents, please share comments, below!

Fragrance Friday: Christmas

Fragrance Friday: Christmas

This Christmas was the first since I embraced the pursuit and understanding of fragrance as a hobby, and my nice family rose to the occasion! In addition to the early gift of Penhaligon’s Blasted BloomFragrance Friday: Blasted Bloom, I was given several other beautiful scents. I’ll save those for later Fragrance Friday posts! The most fun I had, though, was that my three children (two teenagers and one young adult) suggested that they too would like to receive some fragrance! Continue reading

Fragrance Friday: Blasted Bloom

Fragrance Friday: Blasted Bloom

Well, he’s done it again. My nice husband turns out to have an instinct for choosing wonderful perfume on my behalf and this time, he brought home a brand new scent from London for me: Penhaligon’s Blasted Bloom. What my husband had no way of knowing is that the nose behind Blasted Bloom is the legendary Alberto Morillas — who also created another perfume he brought me from his travels, which I love: Fragrance Friday: Custo Barcelona L’Eau. Morillas has also created several others I like, such as Estee Lauder’s Pleasures and Bvlgari’s Omnia Coral and Omnia Indian Garnet.

From Penhaligon’s website: “Illuminating the freshness of wild flora found along the dramatic British coast, Blasted Bloom captures a free-spirited landscape where the energy and majesty of the Sea meets the natural richness of the Land. The mineral purity of an aquatic accord meets the fruity sparkle of wild berries and the sensation of hand-crushed green leaves. Wild floral heart of eglantine rose and hawthorn is tinted with pink pepper. A whisper of Clearwood™ is enveloped in balmy cedarwood, on a smooth bed of moss and musks.” Continue reading

(Black) Fragrance Friday update

(Black) Fragrance Friday update

When last heard from, Gentle Reader, I was about to be dragged by three offspring into the wilds of “Black Friday.” Negotiations resulted in the acceptable compromise of avoiding all malls but going to an outdoors shopping district that is much less crowded but has many of the same stores. I clung to the hope that in the midst of gift and clothes shopping, I might encounter some fragrance deals.

Success! Continue reading

(Black) Fragrance Friday

(Black) Fragrance Friday

OMG, it’s Black Friday which I normally hate and avoid like the plague, but my teenagers want to go out shopping. Our compromise is that we will not go to any of the indoor shopping malls or on highways, but we will go to the hipster outdoor shopping district near our house. I plan to console myself with much sniffing/sampling of scents! And maybe I’ll find some good buys too. I’ll update later! Wish me luck!

Fragrance Friday: S(c)en(t)sory Overload

Fragrance Friday: S(c)en(t)sory Overload

This is the fragrance story I was going to share last Friday, before I heard about the attacks in Paris. So last Friday was a Fragrance Friday moment of silence in honor of one of the world’s greatest fragrance cities. This Friday, I’ll describe my recent (and first) visit to Los Angeles, the Broad Museum and the Scent Bar.

I was in Costa Mesa for a conference; an old friend had recently moved to Los Angeles and invited me to spend some time with her downtown, where she lives. We made plans to spend the morning at the new Broad Museum of contemporary art, where she works on weekends, then eat lunch in Little Tokyo, then make our way to the Scent Bar, storefront and home base of http://www.luckyscent.com, a noted online retailer of independent, niche and hard to find perfumes.

First, the Broad Museum. Continue reading

Fragrance Friday: A Moment of Silence

Fragrance Friday: A Moment of Silence

I had a wonderful fragrance experience to share last Friday, then I heard the awful news about the terror attacks in Paris. I love Paris and have spent some summers there. My husband and I got engaged in Paris and later spent part of our honeymoon there. It is the City of Light and one of the world’s cities most associated with fragrance and perfume, as well as so many other things of beauty and creative spirits. So this week’s Fragrance Friday is a moment of silence for Paris, but also a statement of my conviction that its true light will not be extinguished. Vive la France!

Photo: eiffeltowerfacts.org.