Fragrance Friday: Terre d’Iris

Fragrance Friday: Terre d’Iris

Another bottle from my Collection Voyage of Miller Harris fragrances is Terre d’Iris.  I like it very much but I don’t feel I fully understand it yet. Fragrantica says it “represents a fragrant journey around the Mediterranean. Calabria bergamot and Sicilian bitter orange open the composition leading to the heart of delicious southern herbs such as rosemary from Dalmatia and clary sage, followed by orange blossom and roses from Tunis and Turkey. The base is composed of patchouli, moss, French fir balsam and Florentine iris.”

I definitely get the opening citrus notes, bergamot and bitter orange. The bitter orange in particular is pleasant and strangely compelling. I generally like green fragrances, with their herbal notes, and although I wouldn’t describe Terre d’Iris as a green fragrance, it is certainly aromatic, with a little bite to its opening. Here is its “scent mosaic”, from the Miller Harris website:

Scent mosaic by Miller Harris perfumes, for Terre d'Iris

Scent mosaic for Terre d’Iris, http://www.millerharris.com

It is important that one of the key notes is not just iris, but “Florentine iris.” Florentine iris is one of the few irises that is considered to be an herb, not just a beautiful flower. Rachel McLeod writes in NaturalLife:  “The most important herbal use for irises to day is the use of the rhizomes from certain species to make orris root for use in perfumery and pot-pourri. Orris root has been one of the most important ingredients in any scent industry from as far back as the 15th century. The scent is rather like sweet violets but its real value is in its ability to fix other scents…. Orris root comes from three closely related irises – Iris germanica, Iris florentina and Iris pallida.”

Iris florentina is now known to be an ancient hybrid of iris germanica, or bearded iris. It has white flowers flushed with mauve. The flower itself is scented although the main value of this iris to perfumery is as a source of orris root and iris butter, which is painstakingly extracted over a period of years from the plant’s rhizomes. Iris florentina is grown mainly in Italy and southern France, but also throughout the Mediterranean, which is truly the “land of iris”, going back to the Egyptians whose use of iris can be documented. Van Gogh often painted iris flowers in Provence, such as the lovely “Field with Irises near Arles”, above, whose vibrant colors were restored in 2015 by stripping off old, yellowed varnish. Isn’t it clever, how the Miller Harris scent mosaic echoes the colors of the Van Gogh painting? You can still see fields of iris, both in Provence and in the Giardino dell’Iris in Florence, the city for which the iris flower has long been a symbol.

Fields of light purple, mauve and white bearded iris flowers in Provence, southern France

Fields of iris in Provence; image from http://www.luxe-provence.com.

As Terre d’Iris dries down, what I smell is the sweetly carroty note that is supposed to be characteristic of orris root. It is not sugary at all; rather, it is the scent of a freshly dug and washed carrot after you bite into it, maybe even with a little dirt still clinging to it (I’m looking at you, oak moss!). I do not smell powder at all in Terre d’Iris, if you think of powdery as the cosmetic. Instead, there are more dry, earthy, woody, herbal tones that contrast with the citrus opening. If I had to describe the iris heart note using non-flowery words, I would say it is smooth and buttery.

Although my bottle came in a Collection Voyage “Pour Elle” set, Terre d’Iris is clearly a unisex scent, as it is described elsewhere. It may even lean a bit more toward masculine than feminine; it would smell marvelous on a man (really, I’m going to have to start experimenting with some of my fragrances on my husband!) while also smelling lovely on a woman.  This is not a girlish fragrance. Very few floral notes, and the ones it has are not strongly present other than the subtle iris. They lend a smoothness and gentleness to the overall experience but I wouldn’t be able to tell that there was any rose in Terre d’Iris if it weren’t listed among the notes. The only fruit notes are in the astringent opening of bergamot and bitter orange.

Will Terre d’Iris become a go-to fragrance for me? Probably not, as I do love my flowers and floral notes. But this is a well-crafted and lovely fragrance that doesn’t smell like anything else out there. It becomes a skin scent pretty soon but I can still smell lingering traces of it on my wrist ten hours after application.  I’m so glad to have this small bottle of it!

iris_florentina_sydenham_edwards

Iris florentina; illustration by Sydenham Edwards.

Fragrance Friday: La Pluie

Fragrance Friday: La Pluie

Thank you, Perfume Magpie, for helping me with my indecision about which Miller Harris fragrance to try first from my new La Collection Voyage set! There are two sets for women: La Collection Voyage Pour Elle, and La Collection Voyage Fleurs. Both include three 14 ml spray bottles of different Miller Harris eaux de parfum. La Collection Voyage Pour Elle has: Terre d’Iris, Tangerine Vert and La Pluie. Side note: I love the 14 ml size! Plenty of fragrance to sample freely without a major commitment to a full bottle; and these travel sets are priced very reasonably: 60 GBP for 42 ml of three different fragrances, as compared to 65 GBP for the 50 ml bottle of one. And the 14 ml bottles are adorable. Continue reading

Fragrance Friday: La Collection Voyage

Fragrance Friday: La Collection Voyage

Two of my perfume souvenirs on our recent trip to the UK were two “voyage sets” of Miller Harris eau de parfum sprays. Each one is titled “La Collection Voyage”; one is sub-titled “Pour Elle” and the other “Fleurs.” I bought them both in the niche fragrance boutique in Terminal 5 of Heathrow Airport — a place that is a great consolation for perfume-lovers with layovers!

World Duty Free boutique for niche and high-end designer fragrances and perfumes in Heathrow Airport, Terminal 5.

World Duty Free boutique in Heathrow Airport, Terminal 5.

“Pour Elle” contains Miller Harris’ fragrances Tangerine Vert, La Pluie and Terre d’Iris. “Fleurs” includes Rose En Noir, Noix de Tubereuse and Fleur Oriental. Here is my dilemma: they are still in their boxes, sealed. Which to try first? I sampled Rose En Noir and Noix de Tubereuse at the sales counter, and took the plunge on the other set because I have long wanted to try La Pluie and Terre d’Iris. I have a 100 ml bottle of Miller Harris’ Geranium Bourbon, which I like very much although its spicy, aromatic vibe is a departure from my usual green and white florals.

Set of three Miller Harris fragrances, Fleurs

Miller Harris “Fleurs” set

Any votes? Please share your thoughts in the comments, and tell me if you have any favorite Miller Harris scents!

Set of three Miller Harris fragrances, La Collection Voyage Pour Elle

Miller Harris “La Collection Voyage Pour Elle”

Fragrance Friday: ROADS

Fragrance Friday: ROADS

You may be thinking, “yes, yes, I know, you just got back from a trip so you’re using ‘roads’ as some kind of travel metaphor.” Nope. ROADS is, in its own words, “a contemporary and highly creative lifestyle brand based in Dublin, Ireland.” I was able to buy a discovery set of ROADS’ fragrances in the lovely fragrance department of Dublin’s Brown Thomas department store on Grafton Street. I had visited Dublin’s only specialized stand-alone perfumery dedicated to niche fragrances, Parfumarija, where I bought an Ormonde Jayne discovery set. (By the way, Parfumarija is well worth a visit). The delightful sales assistant, when I asked if she stocked any fragrances that are specifically Irish, suggested that I might like some of ROADS’ fragrances and thought I might find them there. Continue reading

Fragrance Friday: A Perfume Souvenir, Innisfree

Fragrance Friday: A Perfume Souvenir, Innisfree

I recently returned from a trip to the UK with a mind overflowing with lovely memories and bags overflowing with lovely souvenirs: mostly books, because that’s how I roll, but also quite a few niche fragrances that are hard or impossible to find in the U.S. I bought some great ones in the lovely fragrance department of Brown Thomas, a department store in Dublin, but I still wanted something actually made in Ireland. Dublin Airport to the rescue! While browsing in the House of Ireland boutique for some last-minute gifts for friends and family, I found some scents by Fragrances of Ireland, which are made in County Wicklow. Which one to choose? I tested Connemara and Innisfree and bought the latter. Continue reading